HX 711 and load cell troubleshooting

Or is it a load hell?

Hi,

I'm trying to setup a simracing pedals set, but I'm having huge trouble getting the brake (based on a load cell) to work.

Components:

  • Arduino Leonardo R3
  • HX711 module
  • 150kg Load cell

Wiring:

  • HX711 VCC --> 5v
  • HX711 SCK --> Pin 3
  • HX711 DT --> Pin 2
  • HX711 GND --> GND

I got several HX711 (I'm troubleshooting this for a while now...), and I get wildly inconsistent results

I run the HX711 library Basic example code:

#include "HX711.h"

// HX711 circuit wiring
const int LOADCELL_DOUT_PIN = 2;
const int LOADCELL_SCK_PIN = 3;

HX711 scale;

void setup() {
  Serial.begin(57600);
  scale.begin(LOADCELL_DOUT_PIN, LOADCELL_SCK_PIN);
}

void loop() {

  if (scale.is_ready()) {
    long reading = scale.read();
    Serial.print("HX711 reading: ");
    Serial.println(reading);
  } else {
    Serial.println("HX711 not found.");
  }

  delay(1000);
  
}

Load cell not connected at the moment, only HX711

HX711 number one:

I mostly get "HX711 not found" (when first connected, I got some "HX711 reading: -1", but after a while, I only get "not found"

HX711 number two (same board, same wiring):

3 times HX711 reading: 0
2 times HX711 reading: -1, then "not found

HX711 number three (same board, same wiring):

HX711 not found

HX711 number four (same board, same wiring):

HX711 reading: 8388607

I tried connecting the load cell at that point, but it changes nothing... the reading stays at 8388607

I'm really desperate, I find myself with 5 loadcells, 3 arduino boards, 4 HX711 amplifiers and despite my best efforts, nothing works.

If you can help, I would be really grateful (even just telling me what an HX711 connected to an arduino SHOULD return... 0, -1, 8388607?)

Stan

Have you soldered the header pins to the HX711 module?

Yes, I did. And after soldering, I checked for continuity between the pins. Since the multimeter never beeped, I figured it was ok...

Well that only means you don't have any shorts, however, your symptoms would indicate, either a bad solder joint or poor connections on any of the pins, including GND and 5V. Solderless breadboard connections can sometimes be intermittent and unreliable. Check your solder joints and make sure any breadboard connections are tight, not loose or wiggly.

Can you show a close-up picture of your solder joints?

@jim-p


Fig-1:

If 1. of Fig-1 is OK, then 2. cannot be OK as they do not demonstrate identical soldering quality. The 2 could be at best acceptable.

Method is:

  1. insert the header pins and flip the board upside down
  2. Generously apply flux with the brush from the flux container
  3. Heat the iron to 300°C
  4. Go for it (lead-free solder)

All the solderings of post #7 are acceptable except the bottom one which bears cold solder at least for the left-most pin. I am sayng so from my 14 years of continuous soldering experince on high temperaure down hole electronic equipment.

One thing I did not do and maybe should have done is cleaning with isopropyl alcohol. Not sure it really matters (at least on brand new boards).

I don't know why I get this ugly coloration (especially on post #7, the 4 pins of board 3) or if it matters at all

Practically, it is possible to achieve the soldering quality shown in (1. of Fig-1, post #6) for all terminals. To do so, follow the soldering technique illustrated in Fig-1. Hold the soldering iron at approximately a 45 degree angle to the PCB, and never apply solder directly to the iron tip.


Fig-1.

What is the solder wire diameter you use for such jobs?

Well most of the joints look bad.
Compare them to the picture I show in post #4

I would redo all of them

Do you think I can "redo" (pump the solder, clean everything and start again) them or is there a chance I ruined the boards ?

What type of solder did you use?

  • Brand: Stannol
  • Diameter: 1,0mm
  • Flux class: J-STD-004 ROM1
  • S-Sn60Pb40 (so I guess it's not lead-free after all... ;))

At the known risk of possible damaging of the PTH barrels if it is not a high quality PCB.

It has a rosin core so no flux is needed.
You should be able to reheat all the joints and maybe add a little more solder to ones that need it till they look like the "OK" joint in the picture.
Yes clean the flux off.

Is there a reason why you flipped the board up side down?

I still have 4 "fresh" HX711, so I could start over, but I'd like to avoid doing the same mistakes again and again.

  • Do you think the 300°C temperature is correct for this type of application?
  • Is the 1mm diameter the right one?
  • Should I absolutely get isopropyl alcohol to clean the board before soldering?