I am currently trying to install the Arduino IDE on my Windows 10 system.
The installation of the IDE works fine, but not the driver installation.
I first tried to download the Arduino software from the Microsoft Store, but this installation did not install the required drivers, only the IDE.
Now I tried to uninstall the app from the Microsoft Store completely and tried the classic Windows Installer. Unfortunately, in this case, no indication is displayed whether the respective drivers should be installed.
I also downloaded the ZIP archive and tried to install the drivers directly from the Device Manager, unfortunately without success.
I look forward to your feedback, maybe someone has another idea.
My last idea would be to reset my Windows 10 installation.
Hello. Tell us as accurately as possible what kind of Arduino board you have (link to the product on the seller site or a good photo of the board from both sides).
The pictures on their website appear to show, in the middle of all that fancy looking stuff is a bog standards Arduino Nano clone, not even a real one (please tell me you didn't pay the price on their website, or that the price I see is denominated in something other than US dollars). On the bottom of the Nano board, you'll see a chip. The official boards have an FT232RL there. Some clones also use a fake FT232RL (but with FTDI-gate in the past, the fake FT232RL's seem to work just as well, I couldn['t find any performance difference) . These are TSSOP packages, with pins closer together than on the atmega328p, but only on 2 sides. If it says FTDI, then the official drivers ought to work.
But even fake FT232RL's are more expensive than a variant on the CH340, whidch is used in an overwhelming majority of clone boards. They're a great serial adapter chip, generally my preferred part but arduino doesn't include drivers for knockoffs.
The CH340 can be either SOIC8, MSOP10, SOIC-16 and the large version may or may not have a crystal *(CH340G does, CH340E does not, and the rest of them don't.
Read the writing on the chip, look for numbers 340 and a logo that looks like letters WCH superimposed on each other.
And what kind of Arduino boards is this?
Basically same questions as above.
I am sorry, but I do not know how to answer your question. The board is in a case and do not see any information on the board except what I have already given.
The USB wire connects on the top of the Nano chip.
If I unplug one side of the USB cable and plug it back in, the program blinks for 3-5 times. I am running the Blink sketch. It should continue to blink until I stop the program.
Is it one of those? It looks lieke that in the ophotos on their site, those use CH340G driver. Google for it, the installer doesn't inspire confidence, but it works.
I own a ton of boards like that, what's great about them is they're so dirt cheap ($2-3 US, shipped from china in quantities of 3+ )that you don't even need to be careful or conservative iwith them "Oh it'd be usedful to have a dedicated arduino as ISP" take a nano clone like that, like that, solder the wires on, hotglue them down for strain relief and then seal it up in glue lined shrink tube, badabing!
Wish they had a polyfuse though... the fuse against short circuits is the diode and the USB Host's ability to detect and shut downports in overcurrent conditions (required by USB standard but frequently ignored), Shorting power and ground smokes the diode next to the usb port. They cheaped out.
It seems that you are asking a strange question that goes something like this.
"I have a black box, I don’t know what’s inside, but it doesn’t work. How can I get it repaired?
But there are only two ways. Either open and see, or throw it away and buy a new one.
There is also a third, to sit and guess.
I would agree with you completely, if he actually had a featureless black box, but it's not featureless black box, it blue box with a distinctive pattern of features, which can simply be matched up against pictures of the top of the PCB to determine what component it has on the bottom. sure, if you know you're gonna mount something permanently so the user can;'t take it out to examine the underside you could use the cheapest components around. If it looked like a real nano, (hence potentially a "counterfeit" nano), you couldn't trust that., suire. But they're not trying to obfuscate what it is, you can see in the photos when you google that kit, it's not arduino green, it's basic blue, and I'm about 95% sure it's the design I posted a picture of. And in the case of that design, there isn't a cheaper part they could have used... I certainly don't know of any USB serial adapter IC's that are cheaper than the '340's. do any of you? (cause I'd love to snag them and see how they compare in terms of USB latency and the like with Serial UPDI.
