I'm trying to make a Beam break counter by modifying this tutorial Link Where the Buttons would be replaced with IR Beams counting items as they pass thru.
However I have no Idea where to start with wiring the the IR led's to accomplish this, and make IR buttons, essentially. Can anyone help?
The Ir led's I have are:
Option 2 would work the best for the application however if option one will work better and easier I can make it work as well.
Thank you!
We need to know how look is the beam to break - for short distances indoors ( 30cm ?) those leds and suitable photo sensors ( eg in tubes) might do it. The leds you run like a normal led off a power supply with suitable resistor . At the sensor end you’ll need a photo transistor operating as a switch ( google for sensors , google transistor as a switch ).
For longer distances You first need to build some optics to make a beam that you can break .
IR beams are usually modulated so they are not affected by ambient conditions , so it’s starting to get complicated . You might be better off buying a cheap beam break system off eBay , then you can use the output to simply replace your button .
For every short distances (1cm) photo reflective sensors are available ( google )
hammy:
We need to know how look is the beam to break - for short distances indoors ( 30cm ?) those leds and suitable photo sensors ( eg in tubes) might do it. The leds you run like a normal led off a power supply with suitable resistor . At the sensor end you’ll need a photo transistor operating as a switch ( google for sensors , google transistor as a switch ).
For longer distances You first need to build some optics to make a beam that you can break .
IR beams are usually modulated so they are not affected by ambient conditions , so it’s starting to get complicated . You might be better off buying a cheap beam break system off eBay , then you can use the output to simply replace your button .For every short distances (1cm) photo reflective sensors are available ( google )
The IR led's in the system, will be about 1" to 1.25" away from each other, and in an semi enclosed case. so very little ambient light.
as for the "cheep beam break system" were you referring to something like this Ir Beam break
and would that fully replace the switch?
I do have a ton of the above mentioned two options I'd rather use incase in the future I have to replace them for any reason.
the ones you showed above should work depending on how the beam is broken. Usually those IR receivers and emitters have such wide beams that thin objects will barely register. The nice thing about the beam break is that the emitters have a lens that makes the beam going to the receiver much narrower. It's easier to break a narrow beam. You can do it with the items you chose but you may have to physically limit the emitter beam (slot or hole) to limit the beam width or add optics to do the same.
The ones you chose were designed for IR controllers which benefits from wide angle emitters and receivers so that you don't have to point a remote directly and accurately to the receiver.
So it depends on your project.
wolframore:
the ones you showed above should work depending on how the beam is broken. Usually those IR receivers and emitters have such wide beams that thin objects will barely register. The nice thing about the beam break is that the emitters have a lens that makes the beam going to the receiver much narrower. It's easier to break a narrow beam. You can do it with the items you chose but you may have to physically limit the emitter beam (slot or hole) to limit the beam width or add optics to do the same.The ones you chose were designed for IR controllers which benefits from wide angle emitters and receivers so that you don't have to point a remote directly and accurately to the receiver.
So it depends on your project.
which ones are you referring to? the ones in Option 1 or Option 2?
And How would I go about connecting them correctly to the Arduino? Im completely lost here.
either would work... I have both and they work well. The ones with the metal casing are very similar but the case narrows the receiving angle. Look up "Arduino IR" in google you will see many examples.
wolframore:
either would work... I have both and they work well. The ones with the metal casing are very similar but the case narrows the receiving angle. Look up "Arduino IR" in google you will see many examples.
The problem is I'm getting conflicting information, any many who are setting them up a detection modules.
also even the pin layout on the phototransistor I'm getting conflicting information on.
Always refer to the datasheets when you have confilicting information. Also there are probably more than one way to hook something up. Try one. One way to test a IR receiver is to get it to pick up a remote and play back a sound or light a visible LED. Try something and report back and we can help more.