IR Transmitter Schematic Review

Hello,

For my project I need a powerful IR transmitter able to trigger IR home appliances. I have made a basic transmitter using a transistor, but the distance is very short so I came up with the below schematic based on what I could find on the internet.

I plan to use two different IR leds, and a IRLZ44, the power source would be a 5V (VBUS) while the GPIO driving this is 3.3V. Max allowed A from VBUS is not really clear, I found 500mA or 1A unfortunately the specification of the board I have are not clear (lolin s2 mini (maybe a clone)).

Can anyone validate the schematic below please to verify the correctness?
Kind regards,
dk

TSAL4400
VSLY5940
IRLZ44

The circuit is fine, but it is not clear what you mean by VBUS. If you are powering the device from a USB port, look up and obey the maximum allowed current draw from the USB port.

You can always use a separate power supply for the LEDs, for example a 3.7V 18650 LiPo cell. Reduce the current limiting resistor values accordingly, and connect battery negative to MCU and MOSFET ground.

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I appreciate the feedback.
VBUS is the label on the lolin s2 is the 5V pin looks like it is directly connected to the USB connector.
Yes it all will be power by the USB port.

What if I reduce the number of leds from 4 to 2? should I change anything else?
Kind regards,
dk

  • Let’s assume V(f) of the LED is 1.7v and we have 80mA flowing thru it.

  • We could place 2 LEDs in series:
    (5v - 3.4v) / .08 ≈ 22 ohms for the resistor.

  • We could have two such circuits in parallel with 160mA.

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Thanks for posting a nice clean annotated schematic. :smiley: :slight_smile:

You are allowed to draw 500 mA from a port in USB 2.0, 900 mA in USB 3.0.

As suggested above, placing two IR LEDs in series with an accordingly reduced current limiting resistor, will reduce the total current draw by a factor of two.

I really appreciate all the feedback

Considering the two different LEDs have a different Vf, I could group two by type, and use two different resistors as an example:

(5-3.2)V/0.1A = 18 Ohm
(5-3.6)V/0.1A = 12 Ohm

What is the advantage of using the mosfet vs. a transistor? the amount of current?

If you use one LED of each type in the series connection, you can use the same resistor value.

MOSFETS generally have lower on resistance (voltage drop) than bipolar transistors, and do not require steady-state (base/gate) current to maintain the fully conductive state.

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The IRLZ44 is not specified for a 3.3V drive. It may not work or get to hot.
Bettor to use a MOSFET that has a specified Rds(on) at 3.3V or less.

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Oh, this I did not notice, I took idea from another schematic I found online with 3.3V drive. I see what you mean this is not specified for that and it might cause problems to the MCU

FYI

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Are you designing a PCB so you can use SMD parts or do you want a through part?

I m actually working on a PCB but I can do on TH soldering :expressionless: and would like to test this on breadboard... that's why I was looking for a TH mosfet.
The other alternative is to change to a transistor, which I have a few, but I was not really successful with the first design in terms of distance of signal. I will post it here to see if I can improve it

  • SMD devices are the new normal.

  • Pick up some SMD to DIP/SIP conversion boards to use SMD components on a solderless breadboard.
    Lots of inexpensive conversion boards out there.

Appreciate the hint, I will have a look into this as well

The other design alternative is the one below, but not sure if this is pushing at maximum the two LEDs. I had a similar design with only the VSLY5940 but the range is around 5 meters, not sure if I made a mistake.

Inspired by this post

  • Get rid of R26, change R21 to 220R

  • Measure Vce when the Arduino output is HIGH, should be about .4V or less.

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The VSLY5940 has a very very narrow beam angle of only 3 degrees.
So the transmitter and receiver need to be perfectly aligned. If you are off just 3 degrees in any direction the amount of power seen by the receiver will be cut in half.

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Thank you all for your precious feedback.

this is the updated design I tested and seems to work, I might change two of the VSLY5940, with TSAL5300 which I have spare having a wider angle.

I was not able to measure, the input of the MCU is too fast for my multimeter to adapt.
I tried to put stable pin on but the transistor heated up super fast and I immediately disconnected it. Actually this is concerning, if for what ever reason the MCU freezes and the pin remains on, this might burn... was this caused by the collector current too high, or the base current (having the pin always on)?

not sure if I made the right calculation:
with the voltage of 5V, using a 19 Ohm resistance I should have 1.6V on both the LEDs with a current of 95mA. this twice maybe was too much for the transistor?
It might be the case that the 5V is a bit more like 5.2 and the resistor are not precise, leading to a bigger current?

  • If the transistor is getting hot the transistor is not saturating.h

  • Show us good images of your ‘actual’ wiring.