ov10fac:
I have looked at these. Only question I would have is how to make the connections. Since the holes are all isolated, it would require some form of bridge between components. I've seen something like this done in the past with wires wrapped around posts, real old school.
Where there's a will, there's a way:
I see where it looks like it will plug in to the Arduino, so this is used as a standoff to solder to instead of using the arduino?
The male headers soldered on this shield plug into the female headers on the UNO etc.
larryd:
Did you follow post #12?
Sorta, it looks like the wires are not inserted into the holes, but rather lay in solder applied to the hole. I can see how using fine wire you can connect several holes to one. Now, I don't think my solder iron has a fine enough tip to do that kind of work. I also probably need to get some thinner solder. Most of my solder work to date has been to solder wire to switch contacts, not wire up a protoboard.
ov10fac:
Sorta, it looks like the wires are not inserted into the holes, but rather lay in solder applied to the hole. I can see how using fine wire you can connect several holes to one. Now, I don't think my solder iron has a fine enough tip to do that kind of work. I also probably need to get some thinner solder. Most of my solder work to date has been to solder wire to switch contacts, not wire up a protoboard.
Yes the fine wire is soldered into the ball of molten solder covering the hole.
Note, the pads on either side of the PCB are joined with a plated through hole.
You need a reasonably sized soldering tip and smallish diameter solder, 1mm to .5mm.
Buy yourself a head magnifying visor ;).
Practice . . .
Did you read the PDF?
Edit:
I find wire wrap wire is best for point to point wiring.
larryd:
Yes the fine wire is soldered into the ball of molten solder covering the hole.
Note, the pads on either side of the PCB are joined with a plated through hole.You need a reasonably sized soldering tip and smallish diameter solder, 1mm to .5mm.
Buy yourself a head magnifying visor ;).
Practice . . .
Did you read the PDF?
Edit:
I find wire wrap wire is best for point to point wiring.
I did read the pdf. I was a little confused about the copper foil and what it was being used for however. When you do wire wrap, what do you use for posts. I have been playing with paper clips which seem to work pretty well.
larryd:
I thought that was REV 8 for a minute. :o
Time to try using wire wrap wire for that kind of stuff.
I have, and I love it! I made a board for an 8 way switch last week:
And in 1984, I built a Z80 based single board computer:
I find that I need to wear two pair of +3.25 reading glasses to work with the stuff now ...
The copper foil is an optional thing.
You can buy wire wrap pins, but point to point soldering is recommended, IMO.
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Wirewrap is great for permanent projects. Think of how many early computers were built up that way.
Sockets, socket strips, wirewrap tool and wire here
http://www.king-cart.com/phoenixent/category=SOCKETS+WIRE+WRAP+DIP+%2526+SIP
IIRC wire wrap pins are square, and sharp enough along the edge to dig in to the surface of the wire.
CrossRoads:
Wirewrap is great for permanent projects. Think of how many early computers were built up that way.Sockets, socket strips, wirewrap tool and wire here
Phoenix Enterprises category - SOCKETS WIRE WRAP DIP & SIP
Great site, in fact they have some things I have been trying to find for several years. But I didn't find any actual pins?
For pins, use an unpopulated socket.
.
That would work wouldn't it.
Ok,
Now I know how to go about making things permanent, a soldering question. I want to use a voltage regulator to drop my motor power (24V) down to 3.3V for the Arduino. In short I only want one power cord exiting the container housing the electronics.
I have found a regulator that should work on Mouser Electronics, but it uses pad type connectors. Is there any special consideration for this type connector when it comes to soldering it to a protoboard? Thanks.
ov10fac:
I have found a regulator that should work on Mouser Electronics,
Post a link to the datasheet for the regulator.
I have used LD33 voltage regulators. They come in through-hole versions as well as surface-mount.
...R
Robin2:
Post a link to the datasheet for the regulator.I have used LD33 voltage regulators. They come in through-hole versions as well as surface-mount.
...R
Here's a link to the one I am looking at:
The problem with the LD33 that I have seen is the input voltage seems to be limited to about 9V. I need 24V
It's a little pricey, but this device should work:
https://www.adafruit.com/product/1066
ov10fac:
The problem with the LD33 that I have seen is the input voltage seems to be limited to about 9V. I need 24V
Apologies. I had not noticed that - I ad assumed it was the same as a 7805. Now that I look at it, my LD1117 datasheet says the max is 15v
...R
ChrisTenone:
It's a little pricey, but this device should work:
https://www.adafruit.com/product/1066
That would work, but at that price I can almost buy a DC motor controller and use switches to do the things I want. I may just run the Arduino off a battery pack, or plain 9V battery. My guess is it should last a good while before I have to replace the battery.
Robin2:
Apologies. I had not noticed that - I ad assumed it was the same as a 7805. Now that I look at it, my LD1117 datasheet says the max is 15v...R
No worries. I did the same thing myself a time or two.
