Project packaging: Going from breadboard to circuit board

Hello, I am working on a bespoke slot car timer.

My plan for packaging it up is to make a little model house and put the LCD and indicator LEDs into the roof of the house such that the LCD display is at a 45 degree angle. I think this will work well for presentation.


The above is essentially the concept. I will build the above our of thin hobby plywood.

But how should I go about attaching it to the mega board?

Options:

A. Dangle wires from the ceiling and plug them into the mega board, just like when I am breadboarding. On the ceiling of the house I could glue the resistors there with epoxy. On the outside, I drill a hole for the LEDs and glue them in as well. No additional circuit boards needed. The wooden roof is the circuit board. The drawback, it's a little nasty under the covers.

B. Use a shield. Drawback, a little more complex. Does it actually help? I don't think it does.

C. Use these pokey things to bundle the wires up and plug them into the Arduino that is in the first floor.

What are those called? Perhaps just buy those? Or maybe I could super glue the wire leads together to make the equivalent?

Also my mega kit came with a different shield. It's a little unclear how the traces are organized.

  • These are Male Headers at .1” spacing.

  • You can buy Female Dupont Connectors.

For that shield, it looks like the header pins are connected to the holes next to them. If you solder the wires to those holes it will result in more reliable connections. I don't think that the second shield that you showed has those connections between headers and holes.

Make sure that you're wires are long enough. Nothing worse than wires coming loose when moving the roof while assembling.

I always use strip board, sometimes called Vero board.

I also use the Male headers along with the Female Dupoint connectors and rainbow ribbon connectors to connect from then strip board to other stuff.

If you don't want to solder the wires and not take the risk of having loose wires, you can find a screw terminal for the Arduino MEGA

of course it's wider than the Mega itself

and you can use also the PCB to if you want to solder a few components


side note: what a bad idea to put the external AC unit right in front of a window... No space on the floor behind the house?

Here are circuit boards laid out like a breadboard:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/265276759831

This is the sort of connections I use when I spoke about in post#4.

Pin headers are used on the strip board because they are cheaper. Then these are connected to Female Dupoint shells with click in pre-crimped connector wires like this.

These come in various lengths. The picture shows the shortest length at 11cm.

I make all my prototype circuit boards, which is a lot of boards due to my magazine work in the MagPi, like this, and they are solid and reliable connections.

FYI

Are the external components just the LCD display, the LED's and the resistors for the LED's? It seems hardly worth having a PCB.

I would just use Dupont connectors like these:

To connect the resistor to the LED and the LED and resistor to the Arduino I would just use red IDC connectors like this:

Cut one end off of one of the Dupont wires and put it into the IDC. If the other end is male it goes right into the Arduino.

I hate soldering, if I find myself needing to do it I draft up a PCB prototype and send it to a service. It costs about $50 but the result is much more reliable.

Thank you all for the replies.

i

Here a picture of my breadboard.

I have 5 LEDs, 2 LCDs, 1 speaker, a pot for LED brightness, and a handful of resistors.

I will make 2 houses, the board will be in 1 house and the LEDs and displays as solar panels on both.

  • With your solderless breadboard, you do not need to twist resistor leads. :wink:

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Good point. :laughing: I did that since I needed a resistor of a particular value so I found two that in parallel was close enough. But as you noted, I should have simply plugged them into the bread board.

I have to ask, why are you using a Mega in your final project?
Isn't this a job for a pro micro or Nano Classic? Much smaller and easier to incorporate.

  • Or maybe a Pro Mini

Mmm... Well this is my first Arduino project, so I didn't want to constrain myself too much. I thought using an 8 bit processor was constraint enough. :slight_smile: (Reminds me of coding back in the 90s.)

I also plan on adding more sensors for version 2 when I sensor up the back straight for a drag strip.

  • Arduino Pro Mini has 12 digital inputs and 8 Analog inputs (6 of which can be digital inputs).

  • These cost about $3 to $4 dollars, you do need a one time purchase of an FTDI programmer (about $8).

I've decided to use this as it came with the kit:

I

I need to contact several together especially for VCC and gnd. Strangely the above lack ling distance traces. To make longer traces, should I simply bridge solder? Or do I need to affix jumper to wires??

You could look at getting pcb’s made

Have a look at easyada and JLCPCB. It’s not expensive !
You could then make a PCB with holes to suit a small bought box.

There are some Arduino models with edge pads that can be soldered direct to a PCB or you could just use a socket .

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Really just want to get this over the final yard line.

For connecting pass together for a trace, I am thinking I should use a thin strand of copper wire to help guide the solder.

Look at @LarryD pics in post #8 for ideas.
I like using 28AWG solid hookup wire for low current runs such as below. It's easy to work with when using quality strippers.