You don't "need" all the colours. Electricity flows just as well through a red wire as a green one.
Dahhhh.................
I "WANT" all the colours.
Grumpy_Mike:
But when you need all the colors, it adds up.
You don't "need" all the colours. Electricity flows just as well through a red wire as a green one.
True, but I find it easier to trace circuits when the wires are color coded. Not all of us are at the zen master stage of wiring.
So I have my wiring kit, that on one row has all of my solid core wires and on another row, my stranded wires. I bought packs with 10 colors of each type, with extras for red/black wires. In my kit, I also have crimp pins for male/female connectors, and headers for 2-10 pins, so that I can make my own cables. As I'm starting to solder more, I'm finding I prefer the 20 gauge wires for perfboards, while I use the more common 22 gauge wire for breadboards.
This reminds me of a story my wife tells about her father. Her father used to be an electrician with Con-Ed in New York, and one time he had to rewire a bar/restaurant. The legend goes it was one of the first places in New York to get wired, and all of the wires were brown. My wife recounts how she came in to see him, and he was sitting on the floor, drinking a beer, and figuring out which circuit went where and all while the bar was still in operation.
steinie44:
Used wire wrap years ago. Thinking of doing it again for a few prototypes. RS used to carry it in the stores, but no longer. Have to buy online. If anyone finds it at a good price, let us know.
The thing I hate about wire-wrapping is the cost of sockets, plus the fact that if you don't do things "just right" (and even sometimes if you do), and you find a bad connection during testing - you may have to unwrap multiple layers to fix the wire you want (then re-wrap, which may introduce further bugs).
steinie44:
Yes, solid wire for perfboard. I use telephone wire as it is cheap. Sometimes I can find it in the dollar store for 25ft. However I have to strip the 4 wires apart first.
My favorite (mainly for breadboarding - but in a pinch can be used for perfboard) is 25 pair telephone cable. I typically look for it at ham fests; sometimes you can get it from older offices during a remodel. 8 feet or so can last you a lifetime (especially if all you need it for are jumper wires).
Another potential option (though not great) is to use solid-core ethernet cable; 8 wires and "colors" - and can be found all over the place (again, office remodels are a great source - or ask the guys in your IT department, if you work in place with one).
cr0sh:
The thing I hate about wire-wrapping is the cost of sockets,
Wire-wrapping wire works with solder, too!
steinie44:
You don't "need" all the colours. Electricity flows just as well through a red wire as a green one.
Dahhhh.................
I "WANT" all the colours.
Welcome to the Arduino forums...
I use Cat-5. 4 pair so I get 8 colors. seems to work fine in the breadboards.
Noted a previous warning - I have not seen it, but apparently some "Cat 5" wire is copper plated aluminium and essentially worthless for other than IDC connectors. (Or even then?)
The problem with stranded wire is that when tinned, the solder soaks to the end of the insulation, so that part is stiff and it is also stiff where covered by the insulation, but the point between the two is a point of weakness and will break readily. I always pull back the insulation, twist, tin and pull the insulation (whilst hot) over the tinned part to reinforce it. I understand some tech colleges teach against this, but it certainty works for me if done properly.
One neat thing about perfboard. If using it, you can solder the stranded (or indeed, solid) wire in place and thread it once or twice through adjacent holes as an anchor. Allow for this at the edges when sizing the perfboard.
fungus:
Wire-wrapping wire works with solder, too!
Oh, I know that - but generally when you do wire-wrapping, you should go "all the way" - even though it is more expensive. It's also mechanically stronger than soldering (better for use where vibration is an issue).
Another option that I forgot to mention - which is easier to get in Europe than the States - is kinda a combo of soldering and wire-wrapping; it has it's own tools and other bits-n-pieces, but it seems kinda neat:
dave-in-nj:
seems to work fine in the breadboards.
Ok for perfboarding, but you need to be careful using it with breadboards; the diameter (gauge) Cat5 wire is slightly smaller than what is supposed to be used. As such, it can sometimes get 'stuck' and break off inside the spring clips. It's possible to fix - you have to take the back off the breadboard - but can be a pain.
Is wire wrapping wire always solid core?
For example B-30-1000 UL1423. Is this solid core?
MartynC:
Is wire wrapping wire always solid core?
Yes, because you have to poke it into a tiny hole in the wire wrapping tool. It would never work with stranded wire.
MartynC:
For example B-30-1000 UL1423. Is this solid core?
Does it say "Wire Wrapping" on the spool? If it does, it's solid.
dave-in-nj:
I use Cat-5. 4 pair so I get 8 colors. seems to work fine in the breadboards.
Doesn't it come out all curly?
I don't know what cable you use but the ones I've tried are far too thick.
fungus:
MartynC:
Is wire wrapping wire always solid core?Yes, because you have to poke it into a tiny hole in the wire wrapping tool. It would never work with stranded wire.
MartynC:
For example B-30-1000 UL1423. Is this solid core?Does it say "Wire Wrapping" on the spool? If it does, it's solid.
thanks