It seems to crush the pins if I use round dip sockets for IC instead of the other type. I am not sure the IC would be useful many more times after that.
Why would I use the round type of dip sockets instead of the other style, which seems to grab the pins more gently? Seems like if you were concerned about vibration, just to solder it directly. Unless the IC is too sensitive to heat, then just smush it into the round socket for 1-time use?
AFAIK even the turned pin sockets have spring connections inside.
If you're crushing the pins using machine sockets, you're not inserting the part correctly.
Is that what the round pins are called "machine" sockets? I don't see how it's possible since the legs on these IC'S are NOT round, and the pins in the holes are round - how else besides squishing would you put a rectangle into a hole?
They have a scroll-shaped spring inside I believe.
They do go in, and quite nicely, as seen on this '1284P board:
"All DIP sockets accept .015” - .025” diameter and standard IC leads"
So I submit that you need some practice inserting legs into sockets.
CrossRoads:
So I submit that you need some practice inserting legs into sockets.
Or use an insertion tool.
Wiggling them onto place is a bad idea , especially for larger IC's
Plastic packages had/have legs that slightly exceeded the pin spacing, they 'sprung out' a tool was needed to
'sprong them in' before insertion.
Back in the days of steam powered electric, use of said tool was mandatory for hand assembly of the likes of EPROM and other stuff that needed a sunlamp.
Cue fisherman's tales.
EDIT
The cheaper non turned pin sockets are not so bad for this, , Turned pin sockets really need a vertical insertion without wiggling.
I also vaguely recall something about the round sockets not creeping the pins out with thermal cycling, although
that would be an extreme environment I suspect that needed the extra security.
Ok. So it looks like if I just buy a whole 40-pin header of these, I can cut them to size instead of having to buy a dip socket for each and every size IC that I need to have. Interesting.
Hi,
IC Inserter/Extractor Set.
The problem is the pins in an IC are not bent parallel as an IC socket and even protoboard is designed for.
So you either bend the pins parallel, or use the device above that clamps the IC and makes sure they are square and parallel to insert into IC socket or PCB.
If you have problems with the larger IC, they are worth the investment.
Tom.. 
The advantage of IC sockets is that they indicate where pin 1 is.
A well designed board footprint will also indicate where pin 1 is.
CrossRoads:
A well designed board footprint will also indicate where pin 1 is.
Yep, but a lot of us will probably never get further then prototyping boards (veriboard)
I have enough trouble playing with EAGLE flipping the board up/down sideways when I'm on my vise trying to copy the screen (or printouts). A polarized dip-socket is definitely convenient ideally, but I will always have a marker to make a dot or some type of mark.
I've seen the ic-extractor sets before - I just don't extract enough and place enough to go beyond a small flat-head screwdriver to see-saw the chip out.
CrossRoads: What's up with the reset switch on the BOTTOM, inside of the IC-chip socket?
Those LONG-round dip headers are interesting, I will probably grab some of those. I prefer to order mine in WHITE, so I can use colored markers to tag special pins.
DocStein99:
I've seen the ic-extractor sets before - I just don't extract enough and place enough to go beyond a small flat-head screwdriver to see-saw the chip out.
For the inserting, you can use the following approach
Put IC with one row of pins flat on table/desk
Pushing the IC body, bent slightly more towards a 90 degree angle.
Repeat for the other side.
You should now have a shape close to an U.
Position one row of pins in one side of the socket, push slightly to align the other row of pins and push in. I have never done mass production and always used this approach.
