Share tips you have come across

You may find these magnifiers handy ~$70

This version comes with an aluminum stand.
Could be use while soldering, but suggest you use a stereo microscope.

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A fume extractor, in this case one that just sucks/blows the fumes from the area where you are soldering.

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Further to:
http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=445951.msg3115248#msg3115248
And
http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=445951.msg3109398#msg3109398

Small PCBs can be a challenge to mount in a project case.
This is especially true if the are no mounting holes in the PCB.
Below shows one way to attach an Arduino Pro Mini to the top of a case.

Note: no holes are made in the project case.
If the Pro Mini fails, just throw the assembly away with the Pro mini.

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Any good DIYr/hobbyist should have a good set of carbide rotary cutting burrs.
These are used with an adjustable speed tool like a Dremel.
Burr speed ‘must’ be matched to the material you are working with ex: plastics slow, aluminum faster.
Examples, you may want to:

  • enlarge a hole a little bit to the left of where it is
  • create a slot to mount a switch, motor, rectangular LED etc.
  • bevel one side of the hole
  • create a key way

For safety reasons, ‘never’ drill a starting hole with the burr itself.
Just as important, never use a burr that has a larger diameter than the starting hole.
Always clamp your work.
Let the burr do the work, do not force the tool.
Cut/shape from the bad side of your work.
The burr turns clock wise CW; moving the tool CW, will give better tool control, best experiment on piece of scrap.

Use safety glasses when working.

Example:

2.jpg

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larryd:
Examples, you may want to:

  • enlarge a hole a little bit to the left of where it is
  • create a slot to mount a switch, motor, rectangular LED etc.
  • bevel one side of the hole
  • create a key way

Because normal drill bits suck horribly for these things. Take it from me, just don't even try it.

For safety reasons, ‘never’ drill a starting hole with the burr itself.
Just as important, never use a burr that has a larger diameter than the starting hole.

What is the risk? That it "runs away"?

larryd:
Examples, you may want to:

  • enlarge a hole a little bit to the left of where it is

But what if I want to enlarge my hole a little bit to the right? Do I need a different tool?

Jiggy-Ninja:
But what if I want to enlarge my hole a little bit to the right? Do I need a different tool?

Turn the PCB around?

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Jiggy-Ninja:
But what if I want to enlarge my hole a little bit to the right? Do I need a different tool?

Life is tough :wink:

What is the risk? That it "runs away"?

Yes the tool can/will skirt across the surface.

Also, the burr should be ( :wink: ) turning clock wise CW.
You will find moving the tool clock clockwise CW, will give better tool control.
Best experiment on a piece of scrap.

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DIY 3rd hand with connection to power supply and DVM.
This uses 'Pin jacks/plugs' you can also use 'Banana jacks/plugs'.

Magnets are attracted to the stainless steel 403 work surface with Teflon covering.

That’s 'vertical' :wink:

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Make a new project standoff from an existing standoff .

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Hi,

I couple of tips some users might find handy:

  1. The use of stepped drill bits. Long ago I thought stepped drill bits were a gimmick that only looked good on the hardware store shelf. Then I tried one and was hooked. These bits EXCEL in drilling thin plastic and metal. Drilling a 1/2 or 3/4 inch hole, or even worst trying to expand an existing hole was always troublesome. With these bits there is no longer a problem and the holes come out perfect. However you are limited to the diameters on your step drill.
    See attached.

Sorry I don't know how to insert a picture. I tried the insert image button but did know how to get a photo on my desktop to someplace with a URL.

  1. I purchased a current driver on ebay. When it arrived I noticed it had some really limp wire for the connections. I was interested because on small projects PVC (or even worse IR PVC) wire is kind of stiff. With some research I found this silicone wire on ebay.

ebay silicone wire

I chose this particular vendor because they had multiple sizes and colors so I could the wire I wanted from one place and hopefully it would be very similar (it was).

I purchased 5 M of #22, #24 and #26. What I received was pretty decent wire. The strands were tin coated, the insulation was very flexible. My first use was terminating LED light strips. They always complain when stressed at the termination point.

Hope this helps some folks.

John

Step drill

I totally agree with using step drills with plastics.
I prefer the ones that have two cutting flutes.

Brad point bits work well too.
http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware/page.aspx?p=43255&cat=3,41306,41330

Wire

Thanks for the tip on that wire.
I've been looking for a supplier for very flexible high strand count wire.
Looks like the insulation will be great too.

I see they have 24AWG 40 strand wire.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/5M-Flexible-Stranded-Silicone-Rubber-Wire-Cable-24AWG-Gauge-OD-1-5mm-Black-BS5-/172742251859?hash=item28383d9553:g:9VsAAOSw~e5ZSrRS

How to post an image:
https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=364156.0

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@larryd,

I've only used the one flute step drills and find them very easy to work with. I've even used them with thin aluminum chassis with great success. I would be interested how the two flutes differ.

The brad point bits are probably fine, and for small holes regular jobbers bits work, but as soon as you get above 1/4" diameter things get dicey (at least for me).

Thanks for the link on inline pictures will be very helpful in the future. I can post more professional results.

Wire: I stripped and tinned some of the #22 AWG. The wire tin was bright and shiny, easy to tin. The strand count seemed to be above the expected 19 strands (but I don't think there are 37 strands, but could be).

John

JohnRob:
I've only used the one flute step drills and find them very easy to work with. I've even used them with thin aluminum chassis with great success. I would be interested how the two flutes differ.

Wire: I stripped and tinned some of the #22 AWG. The wire tin was bright and shiny, easy to tin. The strand count seemed to be above the expected 19 strands (but I don't think there are 37 strands, but could be).

Here is a two fluted view from the end:

2017-09-15_23-00-17.jpg

Thanks, just ordered 20M #22AWG Black & Red
I have some old similar wire here, 50 strands.

Also got 1206, 7 colors SMD LEDs from the same place.
Red Green Blue Yellow White Orange Purple
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/172576514694

Also got 1206, 7 colors SMD LEDs from the same place.

I prefer 0805 leds as pcb indicators. Where do u use this size of leds Larry?

Bad eye sight :wink:

I use them as indicators mostly.
See:
https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=445951.msg3336467#msg3336467

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1 Like

One great tool to have is a 'Lab Lift platform'.
Lift height from ~1.75" to 6".
These are about $25.00.
You can position your work off the table for soldering and observation.
Adding a 403 SS surface to the top allows magnetic tools to stick.