What I really hate is crimping those pin terminals and getting them right without deforming the rest of the pin.
I use ENGINEER PA-09 pliers. It works very well, but it takes 2 operations to crimp. Beware, there are a lot of Chinese fakes of this pliers, and of course they don't work well!
I suspect that another cause of problems is the quality of the pins and sockets themselves. I have bought them from random suppliers on Ebay where they are described a "Dupont" connectors, but who know what standard, if any, they adhere to. Looking at the variety of connectors on the page linked to brings me out in a cold sweat !
Anything that comes from the Chinese eBay/Aliexpress/Amazon sellers is generally not of excellent quality... There are also a lot of fakes in transistors and integrated circuits, or they don't meet specifications (batches rejected during quality control and sold to hobbyists). And now Aliexpress is sometimes more expensive than MOUSER!
I am well aware of the problem, but getting the correct combination of crimp tool, die size, connector and wire in order to make a good crimped connection seems almost impossible
Arduino as ISP
This comes up every now and then, placing it here for reference.
Here is results from burning a Sketch two different ways:
The sketch simply makes pin 12 of an Arduino Pro Mini go HIGH at power on time.
void setup()
{
pinMode(12, OUTPUT);
digitalWrite(12, HIGH);
}
void loop()
{
}
- Sketch uploaded using the Boot Loader
- Sketch uploaded using the Arduino as Programmer
That's 1,460ms versus 64ms difference.
i.e. ~23 times faster.
Interconnection schematic
See this link for making a Standalone Boot-loader Programmer:
Question,
How on earth do I open IC Tubes?
(Photos coming late tomorrow, sorry)
Thanks!
I have been trying to pull it out with no success.
Wish they made it reusable…..
Not sure what you mean….
Cut the clear plastic?
)
Would it help pressing together the “y” shape from below while you pull it up?
I cut off the head of the plastic nail for easy removal. Then I close the tube with a piece of rigid electrical wire.
Take a strip of aluminium, probably 10 cm to 15 cm long, 2 cm or so wide.
Cut a slot in the narrow side, approx. 1 cm deep, wide enough to slide around the pin undet the head.
Sharpen that side so it can slide under the head of the pin.
Bent the aluminium under an angle so you have a long handle and a short piece that will go under the pin.
It's what we used when I worked in the IC test industry; people had to open hundreds of tubes a day.
Aluminium might be to weak; not sure what these things were made of.
It's kind of a miniature crow bar.
//Edit
Foudn something on ali that looks similar (maybe a bit shorter): https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001375089104.html
Make an M2 Nut and Screw Starter for those Arthritic Fingers
This forum thread has presented several designs for making nut starters.
This version is a bit more flexible and easier to use.
One tool can accommodate either an M2 nut or M2 screw.
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.2” OD, .12” ID (5mm OD, 3mm ID) Surgical tubing is used to hold M2 nuts and screws.
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The flexibility of the tubing allows you to even start the nuts/screws at an angle somewhat like a universal joint.
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The tubing can be slid off the standoff slightly to make room for the hardware (nuts and screw).
The images below show the components of this new design.
See YouTube video.
How Much Solder Paste Do You Put on a SMD Pad ?
Further to post 1132.
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The images below show the result of adding solder paste to SOT23 pads.
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There was some slump after paste application, but the approximate amount is shown in the images; 1/3, 1/2 and Full coverage.
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The 1/3 and 1/2 amounts gave similar concave edge soldering results; Full coverage shows convex edges but if viewed with the naked eye is still reasonable.
For rule of thumb DIY solder paste soldering, suggest you stick with slightly covering the whole pad with paste.
Settle on a Fastener Hardware Size for your Electronics Hobby
When starting out in your adventure in electronics, you need to decide what fastener hardware size you should have on hand.
Some options are M2, M3, 2-56, 4-40, and 6-32.
I settled on M2 fasteners. The screw thread is 2mm in diameter with a .4 thread pitch.
M2 was a no brainer as there is a myriad of support components available for this size.
Some M2 hardware I always have on hand:
- Assorted screw lengths
- Assorted lengths of standoffs
- Assorted screw head form factors
- Assorted nut material: brass, 304 stainless steel, regular steel
- Assorted washer materials and diameters
- Plastic M2 screws/washers/nuts
- Thumb screws and nuts
- Brass inserts for hot insertion into plastics and compression in wood
- Grub OR Set screws
- Threaded rod.
Besides M2 hardware, I do have a small selection of 2-56, 4-40, 6-32 and M3 components.
Below is an image of the different M2 form factor components I use in electronic projects.
Upgrade Your Pinch Clamp Rubber Spring Separators
Further to post #855 Pinch Clamps
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After two years of work, the Pinch Clamps are still going strong.
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Examining the components closer shows some deterioration with the surgical rubber tubing separator, however, it still is doing its job.
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For a bit more robust separator a Nitrile Rubber O-Ring does an even better job than the DIY surgical rubber tubing.
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Amazon sells several selections of O-Rings,
See image below.
February 2021
