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LarryD:
That would increase the current handling of a trace quite nicely.
Regular bus wire works also and surplus solder.
Yes you are absolutely correct.
To clarify what I didn't properly state before is that I use it on wider traces and generally wider traces that have been burnt open. This allows me with a bit of prep and cleaning to almost completely cover the burnt section so it's almost invisible.
Thanks again for all your amazing tips.
When you loom your cable harnesses, the point of termination requires some thought.
I prefer to use the loop method as it gives slack to the wires.
If wires need to be re-terminated or moved you have the slack to do so.
The eye is less forgiving when the loop method is used. 
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Hi,
A lot of great tips here, esp from Larry D--thanks, folks.
Speaking of desoldering braid, I find that the performance of cheap braid can be considerably improved by applying a drop/dab of flux to the braid before use.
--Michael
Update on two items mentioned:
Speaking of desoldering braid, I find that the performance of cheap braid can be considerably improved by applying a drop/dab of flux to the braid before use.
Yes good tip.
You could pre-flux the braid with liquid flux, let it dry, then use it as needed.
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The conversion of two third hands into one was mentioned in a previous thread.
Added it here for reference.
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Every now and then you need to stage a PCB so you can:
- work on it with external devices
- power it and test or upload software
- insert PTH components for soldering
By adding high-power magnets to standoffs along with a magnet base you can come up with a flexible assembly to accomplish the above.
The magnet/standoff assembly is positioned on a magnetic base material.
Use 4-40 and 6-32 setscrew/standoffs to accommodate different sized mounting holes.
A PCB with mounting holes is positioned so the setscrews go through the PCB mounting holes.
As can be seen, you can easily go from board to board just by moving the positions of the magnet assemblies.
If the PCB does not have mounting holes, you can make four spring vice units to hold the PCB at the edges.
Adding more standoffs and setscrews can raise the PCB to the required height.
Badge magnet:
Magnet mat (you can also use a steel cookie sheet):
Rare-Earth Magnet, Cup
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=58750&cat=1,42363,42348
LarryD:
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Instead of just heating after twisting to lock in the curve, you can heat it up to make the insulation more pliable for further twisting. Repeat this a few times to get a really nice twist.
More tightly twisted wire is more flexible and bends better than a loose spiral.
And yes, I checked it for continuity. There's no short in that twist.
Yes, it is very interesting (almost magical) twisting and heat locking wires makes the cable . . .
"More tightly twisted wire is more flexible and bends better than a loose spiral."
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The following describes a typical process of making a bezel.
It is very important you measure accurately and test fit before you commit to the final design.
Gluing things with DCM requires a day for things to completely dry.
If you do not have a CNC, you can still use the following to come up with a reasonable product.
Which end Mills are you using for the cuts?
Similar to these, usually ~ 15-20 degrees.
Careful: They break easily, they are very sharp, they do wear down, need replacing when the milled line is too wide, order lots.
I file the point down a little on new bits using a diamond sharpening honing block.
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I thought they would be more expensive.
On 64mil material (with a new bit), a cutout is 10-20 thou larger, therefore make the opening that much smaller.
i.e. a 1/2 inch diameter hole would be .52 inches therefore draw it ~ .48 inches if you are OCD
The price locally is ~ $6.00 each and can only get 30 degrees here, so I order from China by the bunch
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I understand. I have been experimenting with it to get a feel for how it moves and responds to the drawing file. My focus has been narrow out of necessity. Thanks for the tips.
It is fascinating.