Smoke for a model ship

Hi!
I'm trying to design something for making smoke for my uncle's model ship.
The humidifiers/atomizers work very well for this purpose. The ship already has a battery (7v) and a motor. So I want to use this power source if I can.
I design this schematic, but I'm still learning some basic concepts. Is anything in the wiring that can cause a mess? Or even a better way to achieve this?


The purpose of this is so I can activate the smoke of the ship with a remote control
Thanks for the help :smiley:

The 5V output from the 7805 goes to the 5V pin on the Uno, not Vin. Vin needs 7V minimum to meet the minimum input voltage of the weak on board 5V regulator.

What is the purpose of the IR LED? Or is that an IR receiver for IR control remote signals?

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Suggest you use a Buck Converter or Boost/Buck converter in lieu of the linear regulator.

The relay could be powered by the external 5v power supply.

Lots on Amazon and eBay.

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Well this was my first schematic, but I thought this could be done in a simpler form

So simply testing the converter to 5v and adding it would be better?

The relay could be powered by the external 5v power supply.

How do you plan on powering the Arduino ?

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Yeah I edit the message later, sorry, the purpose of the Led is to switch On/Off the humidifiers with the relay.

The regulator already provides 5v so you should be supplying this directly to the Arduino 5v pin, not the Vin pin.

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5v from the converter should not be connected to Vin, connect to 5v.

Avoid powering the Arduino via the converter when the USB cable is plugged into the PC.

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No, not really. Like @LarryD says, 5V to the 5V pin.

Be careful when using the power plug or Vin. Powering through Vin or the power jack means that the Arduino and all peripherals that are on the 5V rail are powered by the onboard 5V regulator. The on board 5V regulator is not heat sinked so will supply limited current before it overheats and shuts down. Keep the total power dissipated by the on board regulator to less than 1W to avoid overheating. The amount of current depends on the voltage input to Vin or the power jack. The higher the voltage the less current can by supplied. I would use a buck converter to drop the higher voltage to 5V and connect that to the 5V on the Arduino, bypassing the, weak, 5V regulator if the 5V rail needs to provide much current. Then the rated current of the DC DC converter is available on the 5V line.

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Thanks for the answers!
So the XL6009 outputs 1.5A max, so I need to keep an eye on this, or I can supply more than 1A to 5v pin?

As long as the converter outputs a goo solid 5V you are OK. The Arduino will use only the current that it needs.

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Do you have a link to the specific humidifier/atomizer module you are using? The one in the diagram appears to have an enable input, the relay may be unnecessary.

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This is the atomizer
I don't use the USB connector, and the button is connected with a jumper cable

You don't figure out how you helped me to understand finally how voltage works :smiley:
So far as I can figure out. This would be the final scheme.


Now can even use an ATTiny85 to make the circuit smaller.
So this is probably my final schematic.

Gonna take a look at the relay wiring to not mess something more.
Really thanks all for the answers :smiley:

Thanks for all the help!

If the boat is controlled with an RC radio, these units plug straight int the receiver and thus skip the whole Arduino part: https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005003285927147.html or a double relay: 1Pc Rc Model Pwm Ontvanger Schakelaar 2 Manieren 20A Relais Voor Rc Boot Marine Waterpomp Rc auto Licht Fpv Camera|Onderdelen & accessoires| - AliExpress .

Hi!
I just figure out a better way to do it.


No need to use relays as far as I could read. And now can even turn one or both with simple buttons from the remote!

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