The encoder circuit is broken, is there a different method?

Speed encoder
334 line
A-B Phase

Where do I connect the pins in the encoder?

two yellow wires for the led.

specifications:

4353.jpg

This would appear to be a quadrature encoder. Your title says "is broken". What does that mean?

I would use the Paul Stoffregen library Encoder.h available through the library manager. There is information about quadrature encoders and how to hook up the A and B outputs here

https://www.pjrc.com/teensy/td_libs_Encoder.html

A google search on "Arduino quadrature encoder" will bring up lots of hits.

There is also this tutorial
https://playground.arduino.cc/Main/RotaryEncoders/

My English is not good, I'm sorry.
The led on my encoder exploded.

I connected a new led.

There are six pins in total. Two for the LED, two for the A-B phase, the remaining two pins are empty.

encoder circuit is broken. That's why I separated it.

encoder led - Album on Imgur -- LED

ENCODER - Album on Imgur -- This is my coder.

encoderrr - Album on Imgur -- Before it broke down.

My English is not good, I’m sorry.

Better than my Turkish :wink:

encoder circuit is broken.

I do not understand if there are issues after replacing the led?

Where do I connect the pins in the encoder?

Are you asking how to connect the A B outputs to an Arduino?

cattledog:
Better than my Turkish :wink:

I do not understand if there are issues after replacing the led?

Are you asking how to connect the A B outputs to an Arduino?

The LED is working, but the encoder did not react.

Which of the four pins can be in phase?
Where to connect two empty pins in the photo?

Which of the four pins can be in phase?

The two central pins appear to be the A and B phase pins giving the quadrature output. It really does not matter which one is A or B, as you will be able to sort that out later when you get signals.

Where to connect two empty pins in the photo?

I think the bottom pin with the white question mark is connected to Vcc and is used as a pullup on the A B outputs.

I am unclear where the top pin with the yellow question mark is connected. It may be ground. Can you use a multimeter to check where it goes?

7tariko:
My English is not good, I'm sorry.
The led on my encoder exploded.

I connected a new led.

There are six pins in total. Two for the LED, two for the A-B phase, the remaining two pins are empty.

encoder circuit is broken. That's why I separated it.

encoder led - Album on Imgur -- LED

ENCODER - Album on Imgur -- This is my coder.

encoderrr - Album on Imgur -- Before it broke down.

Your original LED was likely an IR LED that can make the light go through the plastic insulation between the LED and the sensor. What kind of LED did you use?

Paul

Paul_KD7HB:
Your original LED was likely an IR LED that can make the light go through the plastic insulation between the LED and the sensor. What kind of LED did you use?

Paul

Hello paul.

The led I use is almost identical with the broken led.

This original led;

encoder led - Album on Imgur --- color (RED)

This cooler fan led;

leedad - Album on Imgur --- color (BLUE)

I didn't notice if you stated that you knew how to tell the polarity of the led.
Do you ? (know how and have a DMM with a diode scale ?)
or did you replace the new one with the same orientation as the old one ?

If that LED was part of his sensor (as in, involved in the sensing rather than a power indicator) it's likely an IR LED indeed. Replacing it with a blue one even if same shape is likely to not work. Maybe the light can't reach the sensor, maybe the sensor is not sensitive to blue light.

wvmarle:
If that LED was part of his sensor (as in, involved in the sensing rather than a power indicator) it's likely an IR LED indeed. Replacing it with a blue one even if same shape is likely to not work. Maybe the light can't reach the sensor, maybe the sensor is not sensitive to blue light.

Can I use a speed sensor with my disc?

examples:

Can I use a speed sensor with my disc?

I doubt it. The light/dark pattern on the disc is likely is too fine for the rise/fall time of this FC33 sensor.
If you replace the 334 line disc with one with fewer light/dark transitions (for example say 16 or less) you could get that sensor to work depending on the speed of the disc.

You could paint the disc black with a few transmissive areas.

What rpm is the motor running? Are you trying to use the encoder for fine position control, or simple rpm? One signal per revolution may be all you need.

cattledog:
I doubt it. The light/dark pattern on the disc is likely is too fine for the rise/fall time of this FC33 sensor.
If you replace the 334 line disc with one with fewer light/dark transitions (for example say 16 or less) you could get that sensor to work depending on the speed of the disc.

You could paint the disc black with a few transmissive areas.

What rpm is the motor running? Are you trying to use the encoder for fine position control, or simple rpm? One signal per revolution may be all you need.

I did a steering wheel project for simracing. My encoder is very sensitive, probably because it has 2 phases. But it is not easy to find a 2-phase encoder in my country.

I did a steering wheel project for simracing. My encoder is very sensitive, probably because it has 2 phases.

In that case you will need to know direction, and fine position. You will indeed need a high resolution quadrature or absolute encoder.

But it is not easy to find a 2-phase encoder in my country

I'm sure you know more about how to find parts in Turkey under the current situation than any of us sitting at our computers elsewhere in the world.

Good luck.

cattledog:
In that case you will need to know direction, and fine position. You will indeed need a high resolution quadrature or absolute encoder.

I'm sure you know more about how to find parts in Turkey under the current situation than any of us sitting at our computers elsewhere in the world.

Good luck.

Thanks for everything..

@7tariko

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