I have an UNO with an I2C LCD I need to pack into a weather proof box to use on a no cab tractor.
Issues - Moisture(rain/ humidity/ condensation), operating temps (60F to 100F) in direct sunlight, vibration, dust. So the LCD will display the data, so the enclosure has to be see through. I am thinking using a weather proof box, and maybe installing a small fan with a "filtered inlet" to keep the dust out and not allow rain to get in, and not allow the box to "greenhouse", as in heat up a lot more than ambient temp. Assuming all of this works and I am removing the temp and dust issues, how does an Arduino handle humidity and vibration?
What are your suggestions for moisture proofing the board/electronics? How do/do I need to lessen the vibration it has to endure? By vibration I mean from diesel engine running all the way to shaking from road transport/ driving in the field.
Well considering I have about $200 total tied up in all the Arduino hard parts and I'm only using about $75 worth if that, I'm not really worried about the dollars. What I am worried about is not having a monitor for the downforce system. I don't want to be half done planting and the system goes out and I'm "flying blind", and there are no safety issues to consider if failure occurs. I have some fail safes and can run off of a mechanical pressure gauge, but the point is to use the Arduino system I designed and built so I can adjust the system from the seat without doing math in my head.
Your description of what you have does not indicate the need for a cooling fan. Unless there is some un disclosed heat producing component, I would think you should be able to just seal the box up and let it run.
I’m not as worried about the components producing heat as I am the clear lid allowing the box to heat up like a greenhouse, ie the inside of the box reaching a much higher temp than the ambient temp.
Keith9159:
I’m not as worried about the components producing heat as I am the clear lid allowing the box to heat up like a greenhouse, ie the inside of the box reaching a much higher temp than the ambient temp.
Paint the enclosure white so it is somewhat reflective of sun heating. If heat is a concern, then you might get an IR thermometer (harbor freight has one) so you can start measuring actual temperatures. You can put the board in a cardboard box with a 100w light bulb and a regular thermometer, and monitor the board performance as the inside of the box heats up.
You cannot find an Arduino that is not made using lead-free solder. Boeing worked for years to perfect circuit board assembly using lead-free solder. Many companies use spots of epoxy under each component that will be soldered using lead-free solder.
ALL high reliability devices, such as military, heavy trucks and aircraft use only lead bearing solder.
The Arduino boards are not designed or manufactured for high reliability. While trying to perfect lead-free circuit boards, Airbus lost a 380 due to lead-free solder on a circuit board.
Paul_KD7HB:
You cannot find an Arduino that is not made using lead-free solder. Boeing worked for years to perfect circuit board assembly using lead-free solder. Many companies use spots of epoxy under each component that will be soldered using lead-free solder.
ALL high reliability devices, such as military, heavy trucks and aircraft use only lead bearing solder.
The Arduino boards are not designed or manufactured for high reliability. While trying to perfect lead-free circuit boards, Airbus lost a 380 due to lead-free solder on a circuit board.
Your results may vary.
Paul
What do you mean? I understand these are not high precision boards, just trying to maintain reliability. The enclosure will be put through this abuse for less than 20 hours a year by the way.
What I mean is the lead in solder makes it flexible so vibration does not effect it. Solder without lead is very brittle and will crack with extended vibration.
What sort of temperatures are we talking about? Summer sun in Death Valley is very different to Siberia. Unless you have some heat generating components it's unlikely the Arduino will need active cooling. Even if it does, coupling it to a heatsink with fins on the outside of the box is the way to go. There's a good chance you'll need a sun shade to be able to see the display anyway which may make the problem go away. It's also possible to have the display on the front panel and the Arduino behind it, or located remotely out of the sun.
The first rule of vibration proofing is to solder all connections. Sockets have a habit of working loose. Second is to use a hard, neutral cure silicone to anchor the larger components in place. Third is to pot the whole thing in epoxy but that makes it impossible to work on later.
chopsuwe:
What sort of temperatures are we talking about? Summer sun in Death Valley is very different to Siberia. Unless you have some heat generating components it's unlikely the Arduino will need active cooling. Even if it does, coupling it to a heatsink with fins on the outside of the box is the way to go. There's a good chance you'll need a sun shade to be able to see the display anyway which may make the problem go away. It's also possible to have the display on the front panel and the Arduino behind it, or located remotely out of the sun.
The first rule of vibration proofing is to solder all connections. Sockets have a habit of working loose. Second is to use a hard, neutral cure silicone to anchor the larger components in place. Third is to pot the whole thing in epoxy but that makes it impossible to work on later.
I am in Illinois. So in the spring time the ambient temp will be 60-100*F. I may stick a thermometer in the lid to see how it shakes out the first year. All I can say is a tractor with a cab that the AC is not working in is much worse than not having a cab at all. I understand the glass surface area etc is different, but I would rather head off the issue before it becomes one. I agree, I will likely have to put some kind of shade or tint on the lid to help the rise in temp.