I can’t find any information on what type of connectors to use on this potentiometer. I think they probably slide on from the side and it could be one assembly for all three. Posts are 1mm in diameter and caps are slightly under 2mm. Soldering them wouldn’t come out great unless I cut the caps off. Any info would be helpful.
in the datasheet they say Connection type = Soldering pins
I have never seen that kind before, but I think your hunch is right. Why would soldering be difficult? Just wrap some stranded wire around the post, a drop of liquid flux, and it should be quick and easy. Am I missing something?
Considering it is a linear sensor and the 4 things in the corners are rivets the only way to mount it would be to solder it to a board with the three terminals. This type of terminal gives mechanical stability allowing them to remain in a fixed location when they are used. You could also use glue to mount them and pass the terminals through a mounting plate instead of using a PCB.
The four holes in the corners could be used to through bolt it, but I hadn’t considered soldering directly to a board. As far as soldering wires to the pins, it wouldn’t be difficult, just not very clean unless I cut the caps off. Thank you for the suggestions.
We always mounted these with four bolts through the 4 corners. The terminals were wrapped with tinned wire and soldered, then a heatshrink boot for reinforcement/protection, then the three leads entered a metallic sheath that was anchored to the structure of the unit.
Sounds good. Thank you.
That is probably not necessary. Since this is a mechanical sensor, you should use a thicker PCB. A small solder fillet at the end is fine, but it should be flowed smoothly across the top rather than left as a solder blob.
You could then pin it out to your favorite connector.
That would definitely be the cleanest. I may need to practice a little first. Thanks.
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Good resin-core solder does not need flux.
I was an electronics repairman for more than 40 years and never had to use flux until SMD parts came along. Avoid flux if you can. Flux can run under/inside parts and can be a slow/silent killer if not fully removed.
Leo..
I have seen slide-on connectors for the top of those pins. No clue as to name or source, but they do exist!
No, the ones I remember were much more complex. But that was in the 1960’s! The pins were available to stake into terminal strips and the wire connector slipped over the circular top of the post. Perhaps I will wake up tonight and have the answer!
The style of solder posts, combined with the physical nature of the device, tell me the wire is to be wrapped, twisted, and soldered.
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That is for permanent connections.
Mouser lets me look at images. The proper name is “turret terminal”. Still looking for a connector to slide onto the top. But a regular female slide-on blade connector will work if the spring opening is worked over with a screw driver.
I use it because it cuts the time in half or less to melt the solder. The liquid transfers the heat much faster. Of course, with SMD, the solder balls are in the flux.
Most beginners use solder wire wrong.
They put the solder on the tip and then try to dab it onto the joint.
That burns off the rosin flux that's hidden inside the core(s) of the solder wire.
The correct way is to heat up the parts before bringing the solder to the joint (not the tip).
That minimises burn-off of the flux.
Leo..
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Agreed. I am volunteering at the local High School and teaching them to heat the parts is a challenge.
Yes
These are commonly called posts.
Designed to take 2 or 3 turns of bare wire.
I make up liquid rosin from resin and IPA.
If it's stranded wire, dip the wire in the rosin. Alternatively use flux, heat the wire so the flux soaks in.
The secret is to get the heat right so the solder really wets.
I'm not opposed to using a more aggressive flux like a lead free plumbing solder flux. Nothing like the old zinc and hydrochloric acid mixes (killed spirits of salt)
