I'm making a DIY IR Controlled Car . So for that I've 2 x 8-9V motor .
You understand now what's my problem : digitals pins of arduino nano (or uno, i have both) give just 5 V but I need 8-9 V.
I must use digital pins because i follow this tutorial :
We shouldn't even think of plugging a motor in like that, even if it works on 5v. At a minimum you should control it with a transistor (with a diode across the motor). That won't allow reversal of direction though, so you'll need an h-bridge.
Have a look at small, cheap, controller boards like the Pololu 2130
That instructable might teach you why you don't driver motors from logic devices
the hard way - steer well clear of it. All inductive loads can destroy chips if you don't
make sure you have the right protection circuitry (free-wheel diode, snubber circuit,
etc).
The Arduino cannot supply enough current for all but the most microscopic of motors
without exceeding its abs-max ratings - don't do this!
Seeing as you have the ability to choose, rather stay away from the 293 and it's larger cousin the 298: they are older technology and wasteful of energy. Go with newer stuff like the 8833 like that Pololu I linked.
You don't really need a tutorial- look at the "minimal wiring diagram" in the Pictures tab....
You supply the motor power across Vin and Gnd as the pic shows: the control is provided by the AIN1/2 and BIN1/2 lines on the left, the outputs AOUT1/2 and BOUT1/2 to do what you need to drive the motors.
There are 2 motor channels, A and B. Each has 2 inputs, which are digital lines from your Arduino. If you want speed control, at least one of those will need to be a PWM line. You control direction by changing polarity on those 2 inputs. So if say BIN1 high and BIN2 low is clockwise, the BIN1 low and BIN2 high will be anti-clockwise. Pulse either with PWM and you'll get speed control.
Ok the minimal wiring schema isn't hard to understand ! So thanks for that .
But i want to find it on ebay or amazon or another site with low shipping cost because i live in France and i don't want to pay 15$ of shipping fee for a 5$ product (DRV8833) .
I use a sainsmart l293d motor shield. I find it to work quite well, though you need to refer to adafruit for tutorial as there is none under 'sainsmart'.
For the L293 and L298 you need 2 Capacitors on pins 4,5 and 13,12 compared to the SN754410 that doesn't need it .
That's why there are shields for L293 and L298 with integrated capacitor . It's simply to use .
Because there's always a significant voltage drop across those things. I forget what it is for 293 but the 298 loses 1.8 min, up to something like 4 at higher current. Since that voltage is at a current, that's power, and power times time is energy. Look at pics of a 298 shield and you'll see a heatsink the size of a truck. The 293's middle 4 ground pins are also for attachment to heatsink.
The 8833 may need a heatsink at high current but it's not in the same league.
I don't know anything about it other than it's plug-compatible, As I said above I don't know if it's actually the same technology- check its datasheet for details on voltage drops etc.
I search on the datasheet and i found nothing like voltage utility or voltage drop .
This the link to the SN754410 datasheet if you found anything : http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/slrs007b/slrs007b.pdf