Using a resistor as a fuse

Well, yes they might clear, eventually. Then again, they may not.

I know you’re capable of doing the work so bear with me, I’ll do the exercise for the benefit of the new players. Let’s apply a fusible resistor to a typical Arduino battery powered project. Let’s say we have a 3.6v 4 Ah battery and assume the average current consumption is 100 milliamps. Here is the resistor datasheet:

https://www.yageo.com/upload/media/product/products/datasheet/lr/Yageo_LR_FKN_1.pdf

The first question to wrestle with is “how much power do I want to waste in my resistor”? Remember, it’s a resistor first, a fuse second. So, you say of course I want the lowest power loss possible so I’ll go with the lowest value I can buy, which is 0.1 ohms. Okay, that makes a nice shunt value to measure current consumption.

Ohms law says we’re only wasting 1 mW and dropping 10mV. That’s great you say and I agree. But, now as a fuse, what does it take to open it? The clearing time spec is “less than 60 seconds at 36X rated power”, noting this is power, not current. The lowest power part you can buy at DigiKey at 0.1 ohms is 2W.

That means you need 72 watts and up to 60 seconds to open the fuse. Since power is I^2R, we can see we need 26.8 amps for 60 seconds to open the fuse. Now, look at that from the batteries ability to deliver that kind of power. You’re asking for a reserve capacity of 1600 Ah from a 4 Ah battery. That’s 400X. What are chances the battery can do that? That looks like a complete fail to me.

Some will say what I picked was actually the worst case. Yes, it was and I can be annoying that way but I was making a point. What looks to be the best selection will not work in the most numerous and common applications. Okay, let’s check another value. Let’s say we can source 2 ohm 1/2 watt parts. What do we see there?

Now we have 200 mV of drop and 20mW of loss. Clearing time on 2 ohms does go down to 25X rated power with the same time of 60 seconds. So now we need 12.5 watts. Now it’s a more sane 2.5 amps for 60 seconds. That’s doable, right? Well, yes, it works but does it have any advantages?

No, it does not. Only disadvantages. First of all, it’s a resistor. It’s wasting power in battery application. It adds voltage drop, lowering the operation time of the processor. Worst of all, it’s a soldered onto the board solution. There are no quick change resistors in holders or sockets.

The application is to protect wires and a battery in a short circuit condition. That is an application for a fuse. A fuse can be easily installed inline in the wire with a readily available available fuse holder. You can buy the fuse and holder just about anywhere.

If someone still thinks a fusible resistor is a good idea, here’s the selection criteria: It must be selected carefully so it clears, albeit very slowly. You can only buy them at electronics distributors and you have to figure out some way of connecting it inline your my circuit. Oh, yeah, I could use a two pole terminal block. But, I’ve got to make sure I mount it away from my wires because it could melt the insulation as it heats up to get the point it opens.

Yup. Sure. Sounds like something I’ll never do. My entire point here is why select a special order part when the available everywhere stuff is the better choice? Why use a resistor when a fuse will do?

BTW, the primary application for fusible resistors is in AC mains side of switchmode power supplies where a failure can cause standard resistors to explode and or turn into fireballs themselves or preventing other components in the circuit from ignition. Any place where you need a resistor and have very high potential energy that can be released and cause secondary damage that could result explosive forces and or ignition.

But, hey, whatever. Everyone is free to make their own decisions guided by random people on the Internet typing random stuff about topics that they may or may not have even a cursory understanding of but they certainly have an opinion which they share as though it was based on solid, rigorous scientific research. It is nothing short of amazing to watch some of these threads give life to some of the worst ideas ever that achieve a level of validation only through the power of consensus.

I don't know much about the topic but I believe you are not comparing comparable values. Your 2W 0.1 Ohm resistor is comparable to 4 A fuse! This fuse will also need a lot of power to blow (BTW where you got the 1600 Ah value? ~30 amps for 60 seconds is 1800 As = 0.5 Ah - still a huge value but a lot less).
Also note resistance of fuses cannot be considered negligible.
I think the main difference is that fuses are designed to have controlled fusing currents and times. The resistance value is secondary. Fusible resistors have well defined resistance and are guaranteed to fail safely but the clearing conditions are worse. For devices where you want to use some resistor anyway, maybe for inrush current limiting (such as small SMPS), the fusible resistor is a good choice. When you want occurrent protection and otherwise want as low resistance as possible the fuse is better.
I think it is hard to say what is better for the OP. If it is a battery powered device in wilderness it is possible the power consumption is very low. In that case even quite large resistor may consume only little power but it will reduce the fault current to some reasonable value - unlike a fuse that will blow quickly but let a huge current to flow for a fraction of a second.

The power consumption is very small, a 6VDC lantern battery can power continuously for months. I just want a fuse to blow if an animal chews or some other unforseen disaster (ex: water gets in the case, etc).

Presumably you’re avoiding actual fuses because you think their 250V rating means they won’t blow in your low voltage circuit, which is wrong for the same reasons that it’s wrong for a PTC fuse.

I think a real fuse is the best bet here. If wires are chewed through, you don’t want a PTC that will end up “oscillating.”
Resistors could work, but they are also more likely to start fires.
Another alternative is a light bulb. A 3V bulb will conduct plenty of current for an arduino, but if there is a short on you 6V battery, it will burn out pretty quick. (Iight bulbs are also actually current driven devices, despite being rated at particular voltages.)

westfw: I was only looking at the 120 / 250V stuff because i did not see anything close to what i want for 12V.

Thank you for the tip with the bulb.

The point is that a fuse is designed for the purpose. A sub 1 Amp fuse uses a very fine wire, thermally insulated inside a glass cartridge. It therefore requires far less power than a resistor to blow and therefore wastes far less voltage in the circuit. And is far faster to provide protection.

If you want the function of a fuse, then use a fuse which is clearly designed for the purpose. :roll_eyes: Attempting to use something that is not designed for the purpose makes no sense whatsoever.

When using a very low current fuse, you need to consider the resistance of any fuse holder you may want to use. Really low current fuses have pig-tail leads you can solder into the circuit. This largely eliminates variable resistances.
Paul

I cannot see why fuse holders for low current fuses should be any different from those for higher current fuses! :roll_eyes:

Any resistance in a fuse holder itself will cause malfunction, and the more dramatic the higher the current.

Inconsistency!
Paul

Paul & Paul (sounds like a group from the 60's LOL)

I more than want to use an appropriate fuse, I just can't find the right one (glass case or not). That is why I am considering any good alternative. If I can find a correctly sized fuse I will get it pronto.

I find that most improbable. Half Amp fuses are perfectly common. What rating do you want?

1 Like

Just enough to support say 2 or 3 Uno's worth of power draw, not more.

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/nte-electronics-inc/74-4SG500MA/11644787

Sounds like a half Amp fuse would be perfect as westfw cites.

Note that the UNO already contains a 500 mA rated "polyfuse" in the USB power line - this does not protect your wiring but gives you a n idea of a suitable fuse rating.

Thank you everyone! I know what I need to do now (or at least a very good starting point!).

Hi everyone. I got some of these fuses and are using them. When I short the wires there is a flash. When I then test the blown fuse it will pass no current but does show some voltage. 6 v battery will show about 3 v and like I said passes no current when amps are measured.

I can clearly see in the glass the very thin wire is broken, a gap of millimetres.

How can this be? If the wire is broken how can there be voltage?

Most likely a measurement error.

Where are you placing the probes that gives a reading of 3 volts?

If you measure the voltage across an opened fuse you will measure the battery voltage.

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