Dang it!!!
I have purchased all the parts I needed to make this too, and I feel I am soo close to getting a working unit. But with the writer of this instructable not answering me and my limited knowledge, I may have to give up on it, unless anyone can re wire it to work!
I have both a 9v (that came with my Arduino kit) and a 12v supply, both power the Arduino and the screen ok.
I’ll keep tinkering but I doubt I’ll get anywhere!!!
Does anyone know of any similar projects that work that i can try?
Or does anyone know how to fix this project?
What is currently “working” ?
Intelekt:
Does anyone know of any similar projects that work that i can try?
There's an example on how to read a button in the IDE - the Button example uses an external pull-down resistor (like your circuit); the DigitalInputPullup example uses the internal pull-up.
Same for reading a pot - the ReadAnalogValue example.
I'm sure there are examples for your specific display on how to display stuff and how to connect it.
Get those working; then combine all into one code that does what you want it to do.
larryd:
What is currently “working” ?
Well i haven't got the lm35 temp, or the leds and motor connected yet, i just have the lcd screen and the pots.
When i hold in one button it holds on one screen where i can set the timer using the pots, they all work ok, the screen is working ok too.
if i briefly let go and then re press in the button and keep it pressed again it moves to the next screen where i can see the timer counting down.
But when i let go it cycles through the screens and the buttons do nothing.
Seems to be working ok but i can't control it.
Ok I think I’ve cracked it...
I blew one uno board up!
BUT I’ve now got a working screen, all I did was reverse the placement of the resistors and input wires, looking at the first fritzing image with the buttons and pots it seems to show the resistors and input wires going to the positive 5v side, I’ve just swapped them to the negative gnd side and it works...!!!
The joy of using instructables without knowing what you're doing...
That code you posted before is of the same quality as the circuits... lots of delay() calls, making for highly unresponsive code.
Are the potentiometers and switches working?
You may be able to replace the controller chip on the UNO and salvage the board.
Buy a chip with the bootloader installed.
The more equipment you ruin, the more experienced you become.
wvmarle:
The joy of using instructables without knowing what you're doing...
That code you posted before is of the same quality as the circuits... lots of delay() calls, making for highly unresponsive code.
Any tips or replacement code (Hint Hint)
We can help to confirm your hardware setup.
We can show you how to avoid delay() and avoid blocking code.
Are you willing to do some serious learning?
Why are you attempting this project anyway?
Sounds ominous 
Yes I’m ready...
I’m doing this project because I’ve got an SLA resin printer and I need to cure the prints after printing. Plus seeing as I had some Arduino kits that I had been meaning to get into, it seemed a good time to get into Arduino finally and combine the two, but as usual I probably jumped in at the deep end.
Thanks for all of the help you’ve all given me so far 
Print the following schematic out on paper.
Can you follow what is happening?
Is there anything you need explained?
BTW
I printed it and have studied it, and things are starting to make sense now, I feel I have a loose grasp of this schematic which is of the instructable I am trying to build
However I wired the LM35 to the way your picture suggested and it got red hot to the touch, so I put it back the way the original says to wire it and it works fine.
Your schematic appears to show the pull-up resistors between the switch and the +5v, however I have these resistors and the D7 & D8 leads on the opposite side of the switches S2 & S3 in your drawing on GND and they work as intended now.
Is this wrong or not?
“However I wired the LM35 to the way your picture suggested and it got red hot to the touch, so I put it back the way the original says to wire it and it works fine.”
What is written on your temperature sensor?
Do you have a link to where you bought the temperature sensor?
If you are using the LM35 sensor, the pinout is as I said and as seen in the image below.
The resistors are supposed to be pull-ups i.e. +5v——[1k]——pin ——[N.O. switch]——GND
Are your switches normally open or closed?
Do you have a link to where you bought these switches?
larryd:
The more equipment you ruin, the more experienced you become.
Smoke is educational, too.
Intelekt:
Sounds ominousYes I’m ready...
... but as usual I probably jumped in at the deep end.
Yes, yes you did. But you aren't really at the deep end, more of the "I can breather if I stand on my toes" deep.
Anyone who can master 3D printing has my admiration, and as long as you keep replying here with as much information as you can, you will get there. And learn an awful lot in the meanwhile.
I am a semi-expert with Photoshop and I used Autocad when it was a 2D, DOS-based command line program. (Yes, I'm old). But I have not yet been able to master the 3D drawing programs to make my own designs.
I think you are already 75% of the way to a working program. Getting the display working is the half-way point.
As has been pointed out previously, Instructables is OK for inspiration, but the instructions are rarely of much value. Be ready to do things a bit different.
larryd
They are off, and on when pushed.
SteveMann
Thanks, I've just about got my nose above the water is a very good analogy
As for 3d printing well its been a steep learning curve, first with an FDM printer then an SLA and another FDM, i had to get into Raspberry Pi for the FDM printers printing with PLA and then using Octoprint or Octopi as it is.
Now the arduino has started, so it seems like my head is full
Okay, sounds like those switches are normally open, they close when pushed.
If you followed the wiring diagram on the instruct-able web site (shudder) then you need to wire the resistors as pull-ups.
One lead if your switch is to go to GND, the other lead is to go to the pin and resistor, see image.
This is as I depicted in the schematic.
The resistors are supposed to be pull-ups i.e. +5v----[1k]----pin ----[N.O. switch]----GND
Also, you must be mistaken about how the Temperature sensor was wired when it got hot.
The footprint as I showed is correct for the device you linked.
Also, see the image of the physical device shown in my last post.
Let’s see a good image of how you have the LM35 wired.
I have the resistors on the black wire, same as the diagram but reversed onto the black wire.
The “proper” way doesn’t work.
Here is the temp sensor pic too.
In the image below, if the red wire is +5v, the black wire is GND and the brown (middle) wire is going to A4 then you are wired as per the footprint I said for you to wire it.
The Instructable image is backward to the image below and is not correct!
In the ‘sketch’ you previously linked, the switches are being monitored for a HIGH (1) when pushed.
The author is an asshole as he has them wired for a LOW (0) when pushed.
I will update the schematic so it matches the sketch and attach it to the next post.
