# What is the max voltage and current on a breadboard?

What is the max voltage and current for a typical breadboard? From what I saw online, its mostly 5V and 1A.Is this true?

Currently this is the breadboard I am using now.

That sounds about right, but it is also dependant on the size of the jumper wires used, how well the crimps on them are made and how much the breadboard has been used which causes wear on the contact points

Although i've tried with 9V input, it still works. I saw other sources saying its 12V and 2A.

If you look in 10 places you will find at least 11 different answers. Keep the voltage and current as low as possible and you will be OK. The Arduino itself, along with any sensors/switches will be OK but once you want to switch a few amps with a MOSFET, for instance, then you may well have problems.

It is not a case of working or not, more whether it works reliably and consistently over a period of time

I see ,thanks for your feedback. For now i can assume its 12V 2A max although not recommended to run at those values. Any higher, better to jump onto a perfboard

That depends on the voltage and current. Perfboard has its limits too

oh damn! Do you know the limits to a perf board?

Without knowing the width and thickness of the traces, This cannot be worked out!

Note the gaps in the two long rails each side. Many people have had problems when they assumed that power applied to the left end would make it to the right end.

Breadboards are intended for temporary experiments with low power logic circuitry.

You need PCBs with heavy duty traces, or discrete wiring to distribute power to motors, servos and the like.

What would you recommend that can handle about 6A of current?

A real PCB and solder!

The solderless breadboard will survive at least hundreds of volts. Of course it is not safe. But clearly any voltage safe for yourself is safe for the BB.

@Smajdalf
Shall we just ignore the current that might be flowing ?

I double-space rows when doing valve circuitry on a breadboard, figuring 300V might be a bit much between adjacent rows, but basically you don't have to worry about the voltage limit of the breadboard until it gets to dangerous voltages (which you do have to worry about!).

Current I'd say 300mA is probably a wise limiting point (probably no chance of self-heating causing it to melt/catch fire). The problem is loose connector springs which lead to highish contact resistance (1 ohm even), and then self-heating of the contacts can cause warming up and more oxidation and more resistance. 2A is asking for a melted breadboard or worse.

You can double-up the wires to increase current handling (the internal connector strips are not the limiting factor, its the connections themselves). I normally do this for the incoming power wires if the circuits not just low power stuff.

Would be nice if you could recommend any instead of just saying a pcb

I remember making that mistake way back when.

Sorry, but that simply makes no sense at all.

PCBs are used for circuits up to many thousands of Volts, and several Amps. On another thread it was pointed out that they can be used for quite large currents by actually soldering copper wire along the tracks that carry the higher current.

It totally depends on the layout of the PCB pattern which is designed for the particular purpose; there is nothing really to "recommend".

Ouch!