i fried my last two:
I don't want that to happen again.
i fried my last two:
I don't want that to happen again.
If You post schematics and links to the datasheet of the devices You have connected we would have a good chance to help You. All according to How to get the best out of this forum - Development Tools / IDE 1.x - Arduino Forum
How about using a Servo, am i allowed to use it right away on the Arduino?
im pretty new
To avoid (1) destroying more Arduino boards and (2) asking if this, that, or the other thing can be connected directly to the Arduino pins (and operated), you should take time to read about DC circuits (basic electricity), basic electronics (how discrete components work), small power supplies, the specifications of the devices you are using, and the fundamentals of Arduino.
Follow known-good projects online. My favorites are:
Don’t accidentally wire the power backwards. Mine blew a chunk of plastic clean off of the MCU.
First rule, make all connections/disconnections with the power OFF. Get into that habit, and don’t let others tell you it’s okay, because it is not.
You could use the Nano to bootload/program AVR DIP (2 rows of legs) chips, like what Uno R3 has in a socket. There are many guides to Arduino-on-a-breadboard, ex: full tutorial/reference, pictures and explains.
With AVR you don’t have to have much. A full board has more, it can program the DIY board and provide serial<===>USB.
and the why is:
If you burn a chip on a breadboard then you may only burn that chip. What’s it worth being able whip up a breadboard test to try out a tricky or scary circuit?
You should have replacement chips. Consider the base shipping cost and delivery time to buy 10+ is likely the same as for 1. Price may be near $3 for 1 to near $2 for 1 and drop at some quantity. Shop around, shop smart and you’ll have enough chips to lose some to experience. The rest, you’ll find uses.
The shipping charge goes for total order. Sometimes I padded an ATmega1284P to fill it out, I’ve got a nice little collection. I get sockets then too, and odd bits.
Red Green sez; If it’s not broke, you’re not trying hard enough.
There are several different Nanos, which one do you have and is it a genuine Arduino nano?
So I have to power off when I press or release a button?
jk
Yes…
Gil's Crispy Critter Rules for Processor Hardware:
Rule #1: An Arduino is NOT a Power Supply!
Rule #2: Never connect anything inductive (motors, speakers) directly to an Arduino!
Rule #3: Avoid connecting or disconnecting wires while the power is on.
Rule #4: Do not apply power to any pin unless you are certain of what you're doing.
Rule #5: Do not exceed the maximum voltage or current ratings.
Rule #6: Many Arduinos cannot power transmitters directly.
Rule #7: Before powering your project, take a break and double-check the wiring.
Rule #8: Bad soldering makes for project failure.
Rule #9: Do not reverse power connections.
LaryD’s Corollaries:
Coro #1: When starting out, add a 220Ω resistor in series with both input and output pins to protect against shorts.
Note: Violating these rules can turn your Arduinos into crispy critters. For optimal performance, keep your wires under 25 cm (10 inches).
Additional Tips:
The L293 motor driver, though common, is inefficient as it can lose around 3V as heat when driving both legs of a motor. Consider using a motor driver with MOSFET outputs to reduce heat loss and conserve battery power.
Not all motor drivers work with each motor, they have to be compatible.
The nRF24 radios do not work very well when powered with an Arduino even if the 5V adapter is used.
For more on powering Arduino boards, explore this guide: Powering Alternatives for Arduino Boards.
Connecting power backwards generally destroys parts in nanoseconds IE faster then fuses.
When you make or change the circuit, it should be okay whichever way a switch is set. It’d be awful hard to tell how long a button is held if you cut power and we do time events with Arduino.
@evanmars
Did you connect a motor to your Nano?
The fix is education about motors. Motors have coils that get charged fields and strong current flow. When they are fed OFF pulses, those fields collapse over time and current surges. Motor drivers have transistors that direct the surge back through the motor until the next ON pulse. A motor driver board is what you want to keep the controller isolated from the motor.
Thanks Bro helps a lot i did all of those mistakes
Hence the jk
No.