Hello
I've been using arduino mega wifi for a while b
What does Windows device manager think of your board?
COM1 is usually not the Arduino; does it disappear when you disconnect the board? If not, it's not the Arduino.
Change the programmer to USBasp.
That will not bring a missing port back. And it will not make a difference if you do normal uploads, only of you do an upload using programmer
Yes, you are right. I just glanced at my set up using USBasp and made the foolish
suggestion.
It shows this screen when the board is connected and when it is not
It does not recognize the board at all
Can I use usb programmer?
Which number should I use?
How should I connect the wires?
Number 1 is the cheapest
What should I do if I want to put the code on the wifi?
So COM1 is not your Arduino ! So again, what does Windows device manager think of your board?
Look for any yellow triangles. If Windows recognises your board, you will have an entry under Ports (COM & LPT). If it's not recognised anymore at all,
What you showed are not programmers but TTL-to-USB converters. You might be able to use them; they will basically replace the TTL-to-USB converter that is on the board. You will need one that has a pin called DTR.
Yes, my arduino is Mega Wi-Fi, I used a lot of usb interface wires, but it didn't work, but before the board was damaged, the code was easily uploaded to it.
The question is how to connect the wires of the usb converter to the arduino?
The types of bases are shown in the picture
hello everyone
Can I use the usb programmer for arduino mega wifi?
what is it suitable for this?
how to connect the usb programmer to board?
is this possible without dtr pin?
One of the parts of my board that is responsible for uploading the code is damaged, but the previous code is still fully executed, and I only have problems uploading the new code, so I want to use an external programmer, but I don't know which one to choose
Can you post a link to the board you have? Sounds like you have one of those Mega's, with an ESP8266 built in. This tutorial might be of help: ATmega328p + ESP8266 WIFI tutorial
One of the parts of my board that is responsible for uploading the code is damaged, but the previous code is still fully executed, and I only have problems uploading the new code, so I want to use an external programmer, but I don't know which one to choose.
FT232RL has worked for me in the past, but others probably work, provided they have 5v available. From memory, I think I followed this wiring. auto reset an Arduino using ftdi - DTR signal stays low and needs to go high after 1-50ms - Electrical Engineering Stack Exchange. This also allows for uploading without holding down the reset button.
i do not have dtr pin
you don't need DTR pin on the Mega. Just the reset pin on mega, as well as RX0 and TX0.
That’s kind of half true…
Arduinos don’t have a DTR pin, but as long as you have +5, Gnd, tx and rx, you can release the RESET pin immediately when the download phase starts, or you can use an ISP programmer directly.
Your two topics on the same or similar subject have been merged.
Please do not duplicate your questions as doing so wastes the time and effort of the volunteers trying to help you as they are then answering the same thing in different places.
Please create one topic only for your question and choose the forum category carefully. If you have multiple questions about the same project then please ask your questions in the one topic as the answers to one question provide useful context for the others, and also you won’t have to keep explaining your project repeatedly.
Repeated duplicate posting could result in a temporary or permanent ban from the forum.
Could you take a few moments to Learn How To Use The Forum
It will help you get the best out of the forum in the future.
Thank you.
Well, unlike the mega, the pro mini has a DTR pin, so I thought this may have caused confusion for OP.
Anyway, the Fritzing crap (legit can't find a real schematic 
) in the 2nd link I posted actually worked for me when trying to automatically program a Uno, without the uno's inbuilt FTDI, however you can also manually release the reset, like you mention.
