18v DC motor with arduino

Hello everyone,

Since last week I've been thinking about building my first project: a robotic lawn mower.
I know setting up the perimeter wire and sensors is fairly difficult but it want to take on the challenge.

I've got some concerns considering driving the brushless DC motors.
Also I don't know if I should use any resistors (for the perimeter wire part I know I should).
I have put a picture below of how I think it should be connected:

Could you give me some feedback?

Thanks in advance,

Rick

That is not a brushless motor driver.

Thanks for your reply.
What drive could I use? The only driver I've worked with is the L293N, but that is only compatible for up to 12V.
Maybe the A4988 or DRV8833?

There are a few. ODrive robotics has some, I'm pretty sure M5Stack has a BLDC controller (I think it's even an ODrive).
You might find this tutorial helpful: Arduino Brushless Motor Control Tutorial | ESC | BLDC - How To Mechatronics

Thanks a lot, very helpful!
I'll dig a little deeper into it and come back when I understand it bit better.

Edit:
I've looked into it and I came to the conclusion that a brushless motor would be to expensive (for now) and could give to much noise for the sensors.
I am switching to a brushed motor with brushed motor driver, both motor and driver are cheaper.

The L298N is capable of only 2A in stead of the required 4.4A (on 18V). After a calculation I found that Increasing the voltage to 24V would give me 3.3A on the driver and 6.6A on the W150.
I guess upping the voltage only leads to advantages in this case?
Now I ussume this, I'm planning on using the TB67H­420FTG with (I can barely find this driver online):

  • 3.4A max. continuous current;
  • 9.0A Peak current.

OR
BTS7960 with:

  • 43A Peak current.

OR
MC33887

  • 5.0A max. continuous current.

The L298 is a terrible choice of motor driver for several reasons. That ancient driver drops 2V to over 4V of the motor power supply in the output stage and dissipates the power as waste heat. So your battery dies sooner.

Choose the motor driver based on the stall current of the motor and the motor supply voltage. The stall current can be several times the running current. The stall current will be drawn, briefly, every time that the motor is started. The stall current should be listed in the motor data sheet.

So choose the motor then choose a compatible driver. Pololu has a good line of brushed DC motor drivers.

The BTS7960 is NRND (Not Recommended for New Designs) so if you plan to build a lot of these it's not recommended. However, the breakout boards are easy to find, inexpensive, and the chip works pretty well. I have a couple of them in use.

I don't know if you are familiar with the RS550 18V, but the data sheet tells me the 18V (=24V rated) RS550 stall current is 9A (didn't buy it yet).

In what way is the BTS7960 hard to work with? I guess for the motor I have in mind it's the only cheap option.

Edit:
I feel like the MD10C and IC - LM2575 are relatively cheap but not so common.
Tomorrow I'll have a look again.

Who said it was hard to work with?

How many similar projects have you done?

If the BTS7960 is easy to find, inexpensive, the chips is OK and it can handle high current, I supposed it was hard to work with. Why else woud you not recommend it?

Last year I've done a project in school -> making an automatic 'four connect human VS computer' machine, me making the mechanical parts, someone else doing the electronics, and another guy doing the coding.
Other than that I've never had a big project.
Since I'm in my final year in mechanical engineering, the mechanical part shouldn't be such a problem.

That's good to hear. Do you have anyone at school that can mentor you or otherwise help you out with the electrical as well as digital parts? Picking motors and the electronics is not that easy in itself, then you have the programming of the MCU as well, and much more.

He did recommend that part. Read it once more.

Good luck now!

None, but I'm shure I'll find my way if I put enough hours into it. I ordered resistor, inductor capacitor etc. kits so I have room for making mistakes and playing around.

Now I understand the 'NRND' afther a google search. I'll order the module and buy a different module whenever I need one for a new project.

Thanks again for the help guys!

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Ah, I see. It's a terminology problem. The device itself is fine. NRND is the manufacturer's recommendation that it not be used for new designs because the chip is being obsoleted. It's a warning so anyone who plans on building 100,000 units with that chip won't be caught unaware when they can't order it.

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