Arduino StandAlone problem

I burned basic led blink program on Arduino Uno (tutorial 1, blink led on port 13 every second). I removed ATmega328 from Arduino Uno and put them on breadboard. I connected 16MHz crystal, two 22pF capacitors and 10k resistor between reset and +5 as described on Arduno page. I added led diode with 100 ohm resistor on pin 19 (pin13 in Arduino). I turned the circuit on but the led wasn’t blinking. I double checked all the connections but without luck. I also tried to put ATmega328 back to Arduino Uno and onboard led on pin 13 was blinking as it should.

What could be wrong?

Draw a diagram of the actual circuit as you see it on the board, or send us a good picture of the setup.

You have +5 on VCC and AVCC? You have 0.1uF caps on both pins?

Also, do you have the LED the installed correct way? Cathode (flatted part of the body, shorter leg) to Gnd (or to resistor to Gnd)?

Everything is wired the same as on this picture, i just removed 3 yellow wires and green wire (13, 12, 11 and 10) and put LED (yes, it is connected correctly) with resistor on port 19 (arduino 13).


Not that we don't trust you, would you take a picture of your setup.

Of course!

Up and down side of GND on breadboard is also connected, it is on the right corner (you can’t see it).

On some long SK boards there is no connection 1/2 way between the power rails. Move the power wires closer to the I.C.

Also, connect the 2 blue power rails with a wire.

Pull those caps off just to see if there loading the crystal I have seen to much bread board capacitance load the crystal.

LarryD: On some long SK boards there is no connection 1/2 way between the power rails. Move the power wires closer to the I.C.

That could be it he is half way down the rail

I removed both capacitors and it works!

I don't understand it. What that's mena? If i am planning to make PCB with ATmega328 stand alone, should i use those caps around crystal or not?

Yes, what is written on the caps?

221 is written..

"221" = 220pF (22pF is 22, plain)

It looks like the seller gave me wrong caps. I asked him for 22pF so i didn't check it. But how's that the circuit works without those caps in?

The prototyping board has inherent capacitance + there is internal I.C. capacitance.

Is possible that this problem occurs when i make PCB (with some others components, of course). How to eliminate it, if so?

Is it possible that you will install the wrong value caps again? Perhaps. Many multimeters now have a capacitance measuring feature, try that.

If you are worried about capacitance of the PCB, install the crystal and caps next to the uC pins will be all you have to do. Look here to get some ideas of where the crystal and caps need to go.

I realize that this may not be the correct place for this, but since the topic was brought up, I thought I would post it here. A mod can move this where ever they want.

I have ordered 3 types of prototyping boards, pictured below.

Board A, has the Red and Blue lines going all the way across. These power busses are connected all the way across.

Board B, has the Red and Blue lines but are split in the middle. These power busses are connected only as far as the Red and Blue lines go. I.e. the busses are broken in half.

Board C had me really confused. I had to peel the back off to verify. From left to right the first 3 sets of 5 pins are connected, then the next 4 sets of 5 pins are connected, finally the last 3 set of 5 pins are connected. From the grid that I high lighted on the board, pins Y2 to Y18 are connected, pins Y20 to Y42 are connected and finally pins Y44 to Y60 are connected. The same connections are also done for the X row. As an aside, when I tested board C, the person who constructed it did not put in the metal connectors that should be where Y44 to Y60 are. These pins have nothing in there. The other 4 boards of this type were constructed correctly.

Bottom line, buy Board type A or B and make sure that you watch the Red and Blue lines.

JoeO, The description of "Board C" seems really weird. Are you saying that it was manufactured that way or somebody else (a previous owner) modified it?