Hi. This is nothing to do with Arduino, but there are awesome electronic people who maybe can help
On my Wi-Fi Dahua HDBW1320EP-W stopped working IR lights. 24 LEDs version, but only 3 of them working.
I saw some videos which told that all that's LEDs (in other cameras) are connected in series (if 1 goes-all goes). So, how can be possible that 3 working and others not?
I saw some methods of testing, checking LEDs by amps, or one led disconnect and give 3v separately for each one and see if works.
For replace I have one old opened camera hfw1320SP-w and maybe can use this IR diodes. It is different model and diodes.
I made some continuity tests and from opposite site (right), one diode gave me “beep” sound. I unsoldered it and seems that is a fault.
If it only one fault, can I skip it just with solder wire to make bridge or somehow (will work 23 instead 24)? But that will be lucky if is only one fault. Usually heard in more cases goes a half if LEDs
Most likely in your case, the 24 LEDs are not all in series. Instead, I expect that they are 8 strings of 3 LEDs in series each, with the 8 strings being in parallel. You may have failed LEDs in 7 out of the 3 strings. A contributing factor to the problem may be that it seems that the entire LED module has a single current limiter, which means that failures will likely cascade: if one LED fails, the current through the others increases, making them fail as well.
You can verify the circuit by using your meter as a continuity tester and see which LEDs are connected in what way. Draw a schematic and systematically verify all connections.
You failed to mention someone in the A/V business said to buy a new one (therefore; a microcontroller forum must have the answers). Man, you need to supply information, not withhold it.
If you meant "spam" in a derogatory way of looking for answers, then; Yes, I can and I will. What else do you want me to NOT find?
No rush.
I don't doubt your camera can be fixed. The problem is why it broke in the first place. It's likely a design with a fatal flaw, as I hinted at earlier (cascading failures). So you could fix it, only to find it breaks again quickly. You may end up preferring to do what the guy on the other forum told you to; his advice makes sense in this light.
You asked the same question on another forum, didn't like the answer you got for whatever reason so came here to ask again. The problem with that is you didn't disclose the other question and reply so the people here trying to help are doing so without that information. They therefore do not have all relevant information available. The people helping you are doing so in their spare time for free, not telling them everything is abusing their generosity. Please disclose everything.
As for it not being an Arduino related question I don't see that as a problem in the General Electronics category, especially as you have disclosed this, so anyone thinking of answering is doing so knowing that is the case.
Did you try measuring each LED with a DMM. On diode measurement, there should be about 1.000 (1volt) showing on your DMM in one direction of the LED.
Leo..
Yes @PerryBebbington. I will show what you want to know. If someone interest in my topic in other forums, they are welcome to visit it.
But the guy who replayed here, he copied “the worst” post from that topic and placed it here. I had a really better answer than:
I wouldn't bother repairing the faulty camera, complete replacement would be best..
Yes Leo. That is exactly what I am doing now.
Guys, please wait for my replay, when I test, draw schematic and pull out faulty LEDs, then we can search next step. Please be patient. Thank you.
I'd consider replacing the bad IR array
disable the IR LEDs in the camera's webGUI and install an external IR emitter
The link is there for anyone to see the whole thread... but it is not worth reading. In short, you dismissed advice from people who hang out on that IP cam (the subject of this thread) forum with forty-four thousand "likes" trying to help people like you... even as you say "no" three times.
Somehow, my search caused trouble with you, like those other people gave "the worst" advice.
My version of scheme is done. I set multimeter to 2000 Ohms and the numbers showing results in both direction.
"X" show Diode which not light up and I pulled them out. Blue color around numbers are BIG diodes, yellow color are SMALL diodes.
I pulled out 6 big and 4 small LEDs. (X with dot "." show two diodes where one good pulled out-It lights up outside). Rest of diodes light up and it seems they are good.
I don't know anything about these two type of diodes. 12pcs are bigger, 12pcs smaller. I read that usually for sec.cameras are 850nm diode.
@rsmls and everyone, some questins:
-Can we identify somehow which type LEDs diode are, for buy?
-Why these type LEDs is so dark on eye? (bigger was barely see with eyes in dark, but smaller are visible only trough phone lens). Other cameras have brighter, transparent glass and bigger diode.
-If we can't find the same, is it better to change all 24 with new type and which?
Because you have a faulty board/part, and IF you want to experiment...
REPLACE ALL LEDS with VISIBLE LEDs (GREEN for example)
Power the system (do you see some or all LEDs, and are these LEDs symmetrical?)
COVER the LDR ( the top, center, lens) to simulate dark
Do you see ALL LEDs? (my guess is, not all LEDs light during light)
My guess is the copper on your board is broken which started you wanting to "fix" it... so maybe you just need to find the correct wiring of the PWA and wire LED to LED?
@danyCro - This is the fourth or fifth person to state the same recommendation.
It doesn't show how the LEDs are connected.
The LED measurements should be done in diode mode as @Wawa also pointed out.
The LEDs look dark because the human eye can't see IR. How much emission there is outside the intended spectrum depends on the type of LED, how hard it's being driven and what kind of shielding materials present that act as a filter.
If you're going to replace LEDs, ensure that any parallel strings of LEDs are identical, even if they consiste of a mixture of LED types. This is one reason why your drawing is of little use as it doesn't show how everything is connected.
The easiest and most realistic way of using this camera is by forgetting about this LED board and install a separate IR floodlight with its own power supply. Turn it on whenever the camera needs to record. Keep in mind that the original IR array died; apparently it suffers from some kind of major design flaw, so it's kind of a lost cause. LEDs have a service life of tens of thousands of hours, so the fact that this unit kicked the bucket proves that it was designed wrong.
I found that 2000 show similar numbers than diode sign I thought that was same. Sorry.
I know. But exist IR lights which easy to see with naked eyes, I have it on other cameras. Because that, I asked why that light "darker" from others. Are they emitted stronger light at night?
Not sure. I got couples of adapters. Some of them are died in meantime and I was bought new. It is more than 6 years ago when bought all cameras.
Yes, I would low to buy just board, but where? AliExpress, some shops disappear from there, I must check.
On the other Forum I asked for this site where found board: LINK
But temporary, I have problem with register on this site.
If someone knows who to contact, I can try.
The problem for external IR lights I described in the last Forum:
Thanks. I don't love that big external IR lights in front of the door.
The camera must be small and invisible like this mine shape. All peoples who come to me means that is a just light on the top, and nobody figure out.
Need new place for install and new holes in wall with wires. I want skip that if I can. Please.
I thought that was same. Sorry.