(Code 43) problem in arduino uno

hi guys . I recently bought arduino uno but when i plug it first of all the coding app of it do not showing it and when i go in setting and see it it showing me {Windows has stopped this device because it has reported problems. (Code 43) } showed me this and i also try to unplug it and [lug it again after holding reset button bit it wouldnt work . So pls tell me what should i do now?

Perhaps post on the section of the forum that is your native language. Also read the step 1 documentation.

Windows Code 43 means communication was lost with the device.
Did you run a sketch using Arduino Pin 1 or Pin 0?
Does your Device Manager still recognize the Arduino when plugged-in?
Does your system make an audio chime when you plug in the Arduino?

Try this to regain communication between PC and Arduino:

  • Start uploading "blink.ino"
  • see "Uploading"
  • press the Arduino RESET button
  • Does "blink" work now?

You posted in the wrong section. You posted in the Suggestions for the Arduino project. That means where the Arduino is going. It does not mean projects with the Arduino.

Therefore I have moved your post here.

You might want to look at this How to get the best out of this forum before you proceed any further.

Which one, there are three (R3, R4. R4 WiFi).
Original or clone or fake.
Which serial chip is used.
Leo..

R3 one

Yes ik sry

Nah just i pluged to make sketch it saying this
Yes it is blinking and i lar ress ardiuno reset button


Here the picture

The logo is different from an official Uno, so I think it's a clone.
Not sure what to do.
Does one of the LEDs blink (is the factory-loaded blink sketch working).
What is written on the USB<>Serial chip (the tiny square behind the USB socket).
Leo..

Did you buy Arduino Starter Kit Classroom Pack – 6 Kits for Hands-on Learning — Arduino Official Store?

Or did you buy something else? If so, what exactly?

I buy it from Amazon but that's real

That did not answer the question what you exactly bought.

It does indeed look like an official Arduino (based on the 6-pin header close to the USB port).

===

I can't really help you. Did you install the IDE? Did you allow the installation process to install the drivers?

Personally i have never seen a clone with a 328p dip-28 on there.

Yea i install

That looks identical to my genuine Arduino R3.

What does the back look like?

It looks like a counterfeit to me. Compare it carefully to the official board:

📷

A000066_01.iso_643x483.jpg by Arduino - CC BY-SA 4.0

There are significant differences in the silkscreen on the boards. For example, note that the official board has "UNO R3" in a rectangular outline:

image

@shiva's board has "UNO" in an oval outline. The design files provided by Arduino don't include the silkscreen from the official board, so this is something more difficult for counterfeiters to reproduce.

The official board uses headers custom made for Arduino that are a single piece, and screenprinted with the pin names:

@shiva's board has standard headers.

The official board has a PTC fuse custom made for Arduino that has a ∞ symbol:

image

@shiva's board has a standard part.

The official board comes with a custom made plastic tray. @shiva's board does not.

Another thing that is not known here, but can be used as a strong indicator of a counterfeit is whether the board comes in custom packaging:

📷

A000066_02.unbox_643x483.jpg by Arduino - CC BY-SA 4.0

Although counterfeiters could surely copy the official packaging, they won't go to that effort and expense and will instead ship it in a generic electrostatic dissipative bag.

There are some other differences such as the solder mask color and button color. However, it is possible that these could vary over time so I'm not sure they are certain indicators, and anyway we really don't need more to come to a conclusion.

More information on the subject is available in this Arduino Help Center article:

https://support.arduino.cc/hc/en-us/articles/360020652100-How-to-spot-a-counterfeit-Arduino

Note that when the board is marked with the "Arduino" and Arduino logo trademarks, it is classified as a counterfeit, not a clone. The distinction is important because the Arduino UNO R3 board is open source hardware, and people are free to make clones and derivatives of the board. However, they are not free to infringe on the Arduino company's trademark in marketing their products.

https://www.arduino.cc/en/trademark/

It is a counterfeit, but not for reasons like UNO in an oval outline and lack of one-piece custom headers. The R3 has had a number of differences in the silk screen and design through the years. Arduino’s own “How to spot a counterfeit Arduino” page doesn’t have the different designs they have used through the years, and the page has varied through the years. This makes it hard to spot what’s genuine. Looking back on Arduino’s own website at the Uno board store listing using Wayback machine shows at one time they had the exact design shown on shiva’s board, and the genuine board also did not have custom one-piece headers. So shiva’s is a very good counterfeit. The image from 2014. The real giveaway is the color of the PTC fuse, on a genuine board through all the years it is a custom golden-black color. A while back the “How to spot a counterfeit Arduino” page indicated the gold PTC fuse may have 501K “or similar” printed on it, or the Arduino infinity symbol. A second giveaway may be the quality of the silk screen, the A in ARDUINO does not have a very distinct opening in the middle of the triangle part of the A. So Mike does your board have the gold PTC fuse?

Back to the topic, shiva, try plugging in the Uno with a different cable and plug into a different port on the computer, and if possible plug it into a different computer such as a friend’s computer. That’s what I would try. If you have another Arduino you can try re-uploading the ATmega16u2’s firmware using the other Arduino as an ISP programmer. It is possible you received a board that was returned to Amazon because it didn’t work, and they just restocked it and then sold you the board later.

If you "recently bought" a board "from Amazon", you aren't going to receive a decade old board. You are going to receive a board manufactured recently, and so if it is genuine then it will have the current design.