Put large pads for 4 & 5 and connect them to the ground plane on the PCB. The pads should be large so that they can take more solder and make a mechanically strong bond between the socket and the PCB.
For your other questions, it depends on how the plug is wired. Will it be centre positive? If so, then pin 2 should also be connected to ground. If centre negative, then pin 1 should be connected to ground, but centre positive is more usual, so be sure to check.
Pin 3 does not need to be used, put an isolated pad around it. You can use it if you have a need to. For example if you want your circuit to be battery powered when the plug is not inserted. Then you would connect one of the battery terminals to pin 3.
I would agree that working these out can be tricky.
The data sheet normally shows which contacts are switched when you push the plug in, or simply use a bare plug and a meter.
If you aren't using a PCB and are using something like stripboard, you can bend the lugs so they sit flat and mechanically stabilise them with solid wire straps or via pins.
I know these plugs and sockets are widely used, but I don't like them.
The important thing is to get the right sizes as the pin diameter can be different.
They rely on contact spring pressure to force the pin into contact with the socket sleeve and some are pretty sloppy.
There are decent power connectors available and for critical applications, I always change them to something better.
Yeah, I tried with those DC socket screw terminals and it worked. Thought it would be better to try with shielded jack and nicer if a jack connected to PCB instead of glued.
I don't understand that image - it appears to show two pcbs on one panel, each single-sided, yet many connections are missing, so it seems the intention is a double-sided pcb in which case the top-side copper should be in red, and superimposed on the blue bottom-side copper.