First attempt at home skillet reflow

I made this PCB with all SMD components. After hand soldering one, I’m tempted to try a frying pan skillet to reflow one. I’ve seen numerous articles and YouTube videos and it looks fairly simple. One question of concern is the big VNH2SP30 chip. It has pads on the bottom, I normally soldered them by hand through holes in the PCB. If I use a skillet reflow technique should I still plan on soldering them by hand? Or will they solder by themselves without doing anything from the under side. I guess my question is: to have enough heat to solder their bottom pads, will that be more heat than other components on the board can take? Like the atmega328 or the 0603 cap & resistors?
It’ll include a photo of my board, and also the IC I’m wondering about.

Please crop and resample to a reasonable size.

Sorry about that.

If the board is hot enough to melt solder paste, it'll melt it under the ICs too.

Just don't rush, you need things to equilibrate to roughly equal temperatures, follow the advised temperature profiles (several minutes soaking at a temperature below the solder melting point is crucial). Be very careful not to use too high a temperature, it will destroy the FR4 material the board is made of.

Though I've not attempted this (use toaster oven instead) one thing that ought to help is a sheet of bare metal above the board to reflect heat back at it (rather than radiate it all away to the surroundings).

Ok, thanks. do you think a toaster oven is easier? I figured the hot plate would be, so I could watch it real close with a magnifying glass to tell when the solder has melted.

I use a 4-element toaster oven with thermocouple probe into multimeter to monitor temperature. Did a couple of test runs, adjusting temperature by hand, to determine how long it took to ramp, how much overshoot it had when I wanted it to level off, etc. Ended with basically full on for like 30 seconds, then back off to just under the intended temp for pre-flow bake, then full on to ramp up to ~230C, back off to somewhat under that while it overshot a little to ~250 for the 30 second actual solder melting, then full off until it cooled to 180C, and open the door to let if finish cooling off.

(I have all the parts collected to make a controller to automate that, will get around to assembling it one of these days, and checking out the test code for it.)

Ok thanks! I’ll start keeping an eye out for an old thrift store special toaster oven.
I also will read up on the temperature stages. I’ve seen that data on data sheet but have never done this before. I kinda figured if 260°C was the goal, I could just go real slow and take as long as I needed to get to that point, but maybe it doesn’t work that way.

No, if you read the reflow specs, they want a pre-soak at a certain temp, then a quick ramp up to the re-flow temp, then cool down.
I think if you don’t, then the flux is not allowed to function correctly and provide the proper cleaning action for the solder.
Here’s a profile for example.
If you look up Kester Easy Profile 256 (EP25) (a lead solder paste) you can read more about solder.

Solder_Reflow_LeadFree.pdf (365 KB)

Thanks for the pointers!

You're welcome.