Hi guys, I'm building a slit-flap display, a project that I have found online, I ordered the PCB and the components, my problem is that when I turn on the PCB the ESP32 gets really hot and it stop working.
I have made different boards (PCB assembly) with different ESP32 but the results it's always the same.
I use a 9V 3A PSU as the creator of the project suggests, I hope to find a solution because I already burnt 6 ESP32.
Here's the schematics link of the main PCB (controller).
Schematic:
Let's have a look at your PCB layout. Please post it here as an image. Assuming a regular 2-layer layout, it's OK to use different colors for the layers and overlay them in the same image.
Please also upload good photos of the bottom and top of an assembled board that exhibits the problem.
Which ESP32 boards have you tried, specifically? Please provide links, photos, documentation etc.
Is anything else connected to the board except the power supply when this happens?
Can you verify with a DMM that there is no accidental short on the PCB between 9v & 3.3v ?
Hi, thanks for your reply.
This isn't my design, I don't know how to make PCBs, it's a project I found online.
I'm not sure how I could provide the 2 layers but maybe this can help?
About the board I use the ESP32-WROOM-32D.
When this happen nothing is connected to the PCB except for the PSU, I'm very confused why this is not working out because all the components are the one that are in the schematics.
Hi thanks for taking your time to try to help me, this is the PCB, and I don't see any shortage.
When I soldered the parts I made sure not to get pins connected to each other to avoid shorts so I'm pretty sure it's not a soldering problem.
Pointing out the obvious: have you tried contacting the person who made this to ask for help?
I'm sure, but in all brutal honesty, I don't really feel like having to convert the various .grb files on GitHub to a viewable image and then analyze it. Maybe you (or someone else) can do the conversion, then post the image here so all of us can have a look at it.
Please also provide this:
I hope I have uploaded the right pictures.
This is the model I use ESP32-WROOM-32D:
You won't know until you use a Digital MultiMeter to confirm that there isn't a short somewhere.
Also can you post a picture of the soldered board, do you have U1 (the TO-220 3.3v regulator in the correct rotation ?
The silkscreen for U1 is a little confusing. Are you sure you have U1 in the right way?
I believe it is, I have only this picture on me, but keep in mind that the rest of the parts have been soldered.
Yes I used a multimeter and I coudl't find any short between vcc and ground
Looks correct.
Is it an LD11173V3 and not a 5V?
3.3 not 5
Then I'm out of debugging suggestions.
I bought it on aliexpress, what do you think about this one?
If it's the right one and it's good quality I can buy it to test if the regulators I have are bad.
this is the one I have bought
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2255799997876132.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt
It must be 0.8A
It's OK but you should check the voltage with a voltmeter
I bought from 2 vendors one are 800ma the other one are 1.3A could it be that the amperage is too high? or this is not the problem?
I will check the voltage as soon as I can thanks for the advice
No it's not the current.
The designer chose to supply power to the ESP via the 3V3 pin which can cause problems when you also connect the ESP via the USB port.
Do you try to program the ESP while it is connected to this board?
No I usually upload the scripts before to install it.
But after it receive power from the board I can't use it anymore, the ESP32 gets really hot and afterwards if I try to connect it to the USB it doesn't get recognized.
I'm pretty sure they get fried.