New user, and Platform mounting base

I'm not sure where this "new member" post should go, so feel free to move to a more appropriate forum, if needed.

Hello, I'm a new member!

Very soon will be receiving my first Arduinos. I purchased an UNO R3, and a Mega 2560, with bunches of bells and whistles. I'm quite excited to be starting this venture.

I'm a professional software developer for 20 years. I'm very familiar with C-based languages, so coding Arduino shouldn't be an issue. I've installed the Arduino application on my Linux system, and the interface seems pretty simple.

I also have some very basic familiarity with electronics in general. Not enough that I could build a complex device on my own, but I'm not totally green either.

I've watched the first 10 videos by Paul McWhorter on YouTube, and though I can't actually perform the projects along with the videos, I get what he's throwing so far.

So now, on to my first question for these forums, and I imagine it should be a simple one for you guys: There doesn't seem to be a whole lot of options for mounting the UNO or Mega 2560, along with a small breadboard. I'd like a stable, but small platform that would make transport easy. The ones I've found on Amazon are for combo Arduino/Pi, with a larger breadboard, and are more bulky than I'd like. Any ideas? What solutions have you come up with?

What I use.


Edit:
For breadboard interconnects, use DIY made male Dupont cables.

Ready made Dupont wires/cables are not usually of good quality.

Here are DIY 24 AWG silicone insulated wires.

DIY


You may get some ideas from this thread:

Drop the breadboards. They quickly introduce intermittent contact when being moved.

I did build a speedometer using an UNO and a NEO6-M and an I2c communicating LCD. It works like a charm. All kept in a standard plastic box with a transparent top.

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And avoid the Dupont connectors once prototyping has been done, for the same reason. They look really secure when everything is sitting on the workbench.

If needed, a perf board would be a nice option. This one can be cut to shape with scissors.

I usually take a piece of plywood, paint it white then mount the hardware generally with SS #2 sheet metal screws. Works OK and stays together. Sometimes I have to add the plug board to it. I purchased a bunch of Dupont connectors and make my cables, not singles going every which place. I cheat and Purchased a bunch of them that come on a piece of ribbon cable. I remove the singles and put them together as I need.

I like the idea of the Duponts being in a ribbon cable; more likely to stay together and not pop out.

More importantly, swap the single shells for an appropriate multi-way shell.

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@Railroader Why do you say drop the breadboards? I'm not building permanent circuits at this point. I just want to build a testing platform. There may eventually come a time when I want more permanent circuits.

@LarryD Wow, that looks like a fairly advanced setup! Maybe I'll be in the market for something like that at some point. Yours looks nice.

I don't mind building my own dupont cables. Is there a good, reliable source for the parts?

From #3: They quickly introduce intermittent contact when being moved. As You ask like below...

If any motors will be used breadboards are not designed for such currents.

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Do you have an alternative solution that doesn't require soldering?

Options:
get a good crimping set to crimp power carrying wires;
similarly, crimp your own smaller, signal wires to the metal connectors and insert them into multi-way shells. Caveat: fiddly work.

Crimping done well is quite reliable.

Otherwise, if just prototyping, use the breadboard for non-power connections, and connect power wires to screw terminals if available on the device needing power. As long as the Arduino board is not the source of that power.

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You can get 1000 male/female Dupont pins on eBay for about $7.00.
image
image


Also the plastic shrouds/housings are there too.

Pololu sells this stuff too.


Store your wires with binder clips.

Yes, but you are unlikely to get a crimped connection that's as solid and reliable as one that was made with an automatic machine.

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That’s not my experience :wink: .

Plus if you make your own, you can use 22/24/26/28 AWG (what ever length needed) and avoid what seems to be the 30 AWG standard.

The proper crimping tool is very important though.

@LarryD What is your fav crimping tool?
You hear a lot about the IWISS Dupont tool. Any thoughts will be appreciated.

My favourite is:
Platinum Tools 16801C Open Barrel Contact Crimp Tool Clamshell

image


These are what I use with percentage of times I use them:

First crimp the conductor

Finally crimp the insulation

Might have to tune remove some insulation with flush nippy cutters and tune with needle nose.


The Platinum Tools 16801C Open Barrel Contact Crimp Tool Clamshell IMO is the best.

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Thanks for sharing :slight_smile:

When using the 16801C, after crimping the "insulation" on the largest size, I finish with a very light final crimp on the smallest size.

Double over the conductors on 26 and 28 AWG wires.


I mostly use silicone insulation wire with high strand count; 28 AWG has sixteen 40AWG strands.

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To all who have responded: Thanks for all the helpful answers and info on parts and tools! You're gonna send me into destitution.

You want solid interconnects? Then you need a screw terminal shield. For the mega, they're under $20, assembled.

To that add a screw terminal power distro board like this:

https://create.arduino.cc/projecthub/madmark2150/perf-panel-paired-power-plug-piggyback-for-mega-2560-uno-67d604

Once the PDB is made, no soldering is needed to make essentially permanent connections. The wires can be simply be stripped and twisted prior to insertion. No special tools, pins, or forms.

The connector shrouds group & solidify the individual DuPont pins without having to resort to crimping. The shrouds slip on or can be fed over a cut end. The far end of the cables are all DuPont F's that plug directly into whatever modules you use.

The final "sandwich" looks like this:

  • PDB
  • Terminal Shield
  • Mega
  • 3D printed mounting base (wide to clear edges of terminal shield)

The entire unit panel mounts as an assembly with four #6 screw holes.

Here you can see the mega, terminal shield and PDB form a solid, reliably connected stack.

Assembled project is cat proof. Note that its still running after being shoved 1/2 off the table by the cat. None of the connections came loose. Note that the DuPont connectors have retention shrouds that give a place to label, id pin #1, color code to match, group for easier insertion and less susceptible to vibration.

I've built & sold a couple of gadgets built this way:


I use a $150 3D printer to make all the mounts and shrouds and standoffs and such.

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