I was just wondering what will happen to my card. (I already noticed that one of the 3.3v pins is not working but the others seemed fine...)
The burnt part is probably a small 3.3V linear regulator. Odds are you managed to put a higher voltage (e.g. 5V) on its output. Your board may keep working just fine as is, but without a 3.3V pin. You could use an additional regulator for this if you ever need 3.3V.
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You will have to find the schematic of your clone board. The serial-to-usb converter might have a 3.3V output that feeds to the 3.3V pins in little 3x4 block of holes at the bottom of your image while the 3.3V goes straight to the 3.3V header pin; or the other way around.
And after my tests i realized that most of my digital pins are not working
I was trying to make a car for my cousins son
and i accidentally overloaded it... oof
How could i fix it?
Buy a new one. It's an UNO clone, they're cheap.
Don't break the new one.
I live in Turkiye they are not cheap...
Sorry to hear that. Then you'll have to buy an expensive new board.
The schematic is not OP's board. The burned part is also wired differently from the MOSFET you indicated. So that's not it.
It looks like a common 3-pin linear regulator.
Okay thank you all for your attention i will use my aduino mega...
I suggest that you try to figure out why it went wrong. Else the same thing will happen to your Mega.
This should be the schematic for the Uno R3. The only 3 pin device is an FDN340P.
He has a clone board. The 3 pin device is not the MOSFET you think it is. Just look at the PCB, it's pretty clear even though the circuitry is only partially visible. The pinout is consistent with a linear regulator, so are the filter caps.
You're probably right. It appears the board came from AliExpress or the like.
Replace for $6 with shipping.
The PMOS you're thinking about is at the top of the board; Q1. Between the USB socket and the 5V regulator.
While you have the Mega2560, it can be used to bootload new, cheap AVR DIP chips like the ATmega328P in Uno Rev 3 socket.
The chip can run on your own proto board or breadboard. You may never need to buy another finished board!
This is HOW to make your own. Learn and Teach!
What works on breadboard can be wired onto a hobby board.
The Uno with socket is designed for development, not end product! What you can make is much smaller with only needed parts, so costs less! When you buy the chips, get DIP (bigger with pins on 2 sides only) factor and buy several, enough to get a discount!
If you get good at it, TEACH! Spread the word and all may buy together and save the most. If you run out of something, another may have it.
This person solders right onto the chip!
It is possible to solder parts onto a chip socket then plug the chip into that and replace the chip if a pin gets burned. Longer sockets are available, be able to have extra holes and chip - tiny board.
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I see you marked a Solution.
I might add for ALL that AVR chips are so self-contained that they strike me as beauty in simplicity to what I knew before 2000 needing more extra components!
If you can be happy at 8MHz, and turn off reset then all that is required is power, ground, and 2 bypass caps besides a program.
Adding some output and input makes it interesting of course!
PS -- the ATmega1284 really is Mighty but for a robot car even ATmega328P (the -PU is the cheapest I know, works the same) is overkill but buying a lot of the same chip gets more discount!
Note: I do wish that the f__king forum did not feel the need to INTERRUPT replying every time someone posts to any thread, it is annoying as hell!
Maybe start a new topic about that in the website and forum section? You might want to give a bit more details as to what is happening as I have no idea what your talking about 