You can't define the BEST multimeter. It depends on what you are using it for (and your budget).
Flukes are very safe meters so you don't get yourself hurt when poking at high voltage circuits. If you are just working with Arduinos at 5-12 V then this doesn't matter. Flukes have generally less features than competing meters and Flukes are much more expensive than the competition.
The ANENG 8008 is a cheap meter, but it should work for any Arduino work.
At this price you can even consider buying two.
Alternatives are from UNI-T. Consider the 139 and 61 series.
Brymen makes good and safe meters. BM235, BM257S, BM867S and BM869S are good!
...and I would never get a meter that doesn't have auto ranging. However, it can sometimes be useful if you can switch the auto ranging off.
The CAT rating of the multimeter determines what you can safely use it for. CAT3 600V is pretty much the minimum rating if you are going to be sticking the probes into a power socket. Your power socket is only 110-240V but it can go higher with certain faults.
If the power socket is faulty enough for you to be sticking probes in it then it could be one of those certain faults. So don't be tempted to use a non-CAT meter for that, no matter how many thousand volts it says on the label.
For basic Arduino stuff that isn't connected directly to the mains then the cheapest meters are sufficient. Buy two and it's still cheaper than a Fluke.
An onsite technician doesn't want to carry a second meter "just in case" and he may end up probing a power socket, so a Fluke with a high CAT rating is a good buy for that role. Not for a hobbyist just starting out.
The feature I miss most on the cheapest meters is current measurement. Even expensive ones rarely go over 2A and I'm often measuring motors and heaters and battery chargers in the 4A range. 10-20A can be found but it takes some searching. Buy one of those as your third meter.
It has lots of features and is relatively cheap and generally OK, however :
The leads are a little stiff
The auto ranging is sluggish
The transistor tester is a clumsy add on
The capacitor tester is extremely slow and gives misleading intermediate results.
It does, however, have a interesting feature that it warns you if you select, say, an AC voltage range for measuring mains voltage and the leads are set up to measure 10 Amps which my previous meter did not have. In fact, that is why I had to replace my old meter because the probe ends melted in a blue flash.
If possible, find out what kind and how many internal fuses are provided. I got a (Klein) blister-pack model from Lowe's and shortly blew the low current fuse. The only exact replacement was something like $12. !!. After searching around I contacted Klein and they provided a new set gratis since none were available commercially. I don't expect that courtesy to be extended twice.
If I had to do it again I'd wait for one of those specials from Harbor Freight.
You get what you pay for in multimeters - I’ve had a fluke for 20yrs and it’s still within spec . I bought a Chinese one for £3 off eBay and it was inaccurate and lasted a month.
dougp:
If possible, find out what kind and how many internal fuses are provided. I got a (Klein) blister-pack model from Lowe's and shortly blew the low current fuse. The only exact replacement was something like $12. !!. After searching around I contacted Klein and they provided a new set gratis since none were available commercially. I don't expect that courtesy to be extended twice.
If I had to do it again I'd wait for one of those specials from Harbor Freight.
I am glad you posted about the fuses. Last week I needed to measure current and grabbed a DVM I brought home from the plant. No measurement. Blown fuse. No spares. Had to use my old Simpson 260.
Will have to see what the use for a fuse and try to find some spares.
Wawa:
For the remaining 99.99% of the time a $40 DMM without autoranging is more than enough.
Leo..
Totally agree with this. For most of the time, a relatively accurate meter that just allows us to flick the dial conveniently to the desired mode of measurement will do.
In a lot of situations, I simply want to flick to "continuity test" with the beep mode 'ON', and there are multimeters that have the beep mode turned off 'OFF' by default. Fortunately, I don't own one of those ones with beep mode 'off' every time the meter starts up. A button for leaving the beep mode permanently ON or OFF by default would be nice.
Also.... should also consider whether or not the lack of 'units' on the display of some meters is important or not. Sure...... users can get used to using their meter. But again...... convenience of use is something to think about. If no units ...... then it's like Clint Eastwood says ..... 'are you feeling lucky today?'.
I doubt that you need a fluke to be happy, I got 3 and I am happy. Fluke has set the standard, and you will pay for it.
I am going to pick on the Harbor Freight meter to show what a good meter will have.
A good set of leads the will last longer than a week.
Leads then that are soft and bend easily.
The points are made to conduct and have point that are sharp.
Points that do not bend.
A case that has a little weight so it will stay put when you lay it down, the lead will not pull it around.
The case has a non skid covering so it will not slide easily.
A LCD that is readable from an angle
A sel switch that will still work after a month.
The meter is accurate from one day to the next.
I have had 3 harbor freight meter and they are all in the trash.
For a first meter I would start with something like this.
AstroAI Digital Multimeter, TRMS 6000 Counts
It seems like it has all the specs I'm gonna need. I don't need autoranging. Since school I've been using multimeters that don't have autoranging and I find it less complicated. At the end you will always know what scale you will need to make the measurement
It seems like it has all the specs I'm gonna need. I don't need autoranging. Since school I've been using multimeters that don't have autoranging and I find it less complicated. At the end you will always know what scale you will need to make the measurement
What specs. I did not see any, saw a lot of feature and I liked them, what the accuracy and repeatable? That is the most importance to me. Looking at review it has 7% 1 stars, 67% 5 stars. I do not like test equipment with these kinds of rating. If you have had good luck with this brand, go for it. I will pass.
1steve:
What specs. I did not see any, saw a lot of feature and I liked them, what the accuracy and repeatable? That is the most importance to me. Looking at review it has 7% 1 stars, 67% 5 stars. I do not like test equipment with these kinds of rating. If you have had good luck with this brand, go for it. I will pass.
Wow, sorry for the delay but I had notifications off.
I wanna have a multimeter that lasts; but with a budget of aprox 30€ I don't know what to search for.
All my life I've been using cheap multimeter (school mainly); they worked just fine. But know that I have to pay for one I don't want to buy whatever multimeter and end-up throwing it away shortly.
So, what would you recomend with this price tag?
As I've said, I don't see crucial things as autoranging
Edit:
1steve:
I doubt that you need a fluke to be happy, I got 3 and I am happy. Fluke has set the standard, and you will pay for it.
I am going to pick on the Harbor Freight meter to show what a good meter will have.
A good set of leads the will last longer than a week.
Leads then that are soft and bend easily.
The points are made to conduct and have point that are sharp.
Points that do not bend.
A case that has a little weight so it will stay put when you lay it down, the lead will not pull it around.
The case has a non skid covering so it will not slide easily.
A LCD that is readable from an angle
A sel switch that will still work after a month.
The meter is accurate from one day to the next.
I have had 3 harbor freight meter and they are all in the trash.
I started with Flukes in the Military. Recently I was given a Fluke 113. It was great until I ended up replacing a bunch of resistors thinking they were dead. The friggin meter only goes to 60KΩ now it sits on my bench for when I do simple measurements around the house.
By this time I got so used to auto-ranginging after spending a week watching reviews and reading I ordered a Thsinde 18B+ and I love it. I believe I paid $15 for it. Goes up to 60MΩ and has auto shutoff. The 9v battery gives me enough voltage to test couple LED's... (I like this better than the 2AA ones). It has two ceramic fuses inside and is pretty decent build. Not quite as tough as the Fluke but I'm happy. Also has auto shut off, big numbers and backlight. they have a version with a thermocouple and I may have to get that as well.
wolframore:
Recently I was given a Fluke 113. The friggin meter only goes to 60KΩ
I saw this and said, that can not be right, and went looking for spec, sure enough it only measure to 60KΩ.
That would be little or no use to me too. What were they thinking??????
srnet:
My favorite Multimeter is my trusty Avo 8 Mk5 dating from the 1970s;
I wish I knew where it was in my garage, but I have one from I assume the 50s or 40s . . . I've measured voltage with it, and current a time or two, but I've never stumbled across the batteries it wants for resistance . . . (and probably wouldn't pay what it would cost, anyway!).
I don't remember if I still have the condenser tester of similar vintage. It used a tube with two radial lines or regions, and you turned the dial until they came together. I don't think I ever successfully measured anything with it.
I know I gave up the tube testers . . . but you're not going to pry the wire recorder from me . . .
1steve:
I saw this and said, that can not be right, and went looking for spec, sure enough it only measure to 60KΩ.
That would be little or no use to me too. What were they thinking??????
Steve, it was explained to me that this meter is an electrician's meter... I still think it was poor decision.
Having said that here are things to consider:
If you need to trust the CAT ratings (for high voltage and transient input protection)
FLUKE (a $45 Fluke 101 passes all the tests but it's basic does not measure current)
Brymen - built well
If you don't mind that your meter has fake CAT rating and might blow up or burn out on high transients and even testing mains because you only use them for low voltage and low current:
There are a lot of inexpensive Chinese meters out there that work within their tolerances. They start at couple bucks and go up with features. DO NOT USE ON HIGH VOLTAGE THEY CLAIM...
Few good features to look for:
check the ranges and count - higher the better
auto off function - saves batteries
back light - comes in handy
auto-range - not needed but very convenient
beeper or buzzer for continuity
sturdy design
separate current and resistance/voltage inputs
So don't be tempted to use a non-CAT meter for that, no matter how many thousand volts it says on the label.
!!. After searching around I contacted Klein and they provided a new set gratis since none were available commercially. I don't expect that courtesy to be extended twice.
