Breadboard to Permanent

I am fairly new to this. I come from a software background. I just went to the electronics store and the guy is trying to tell me about PCB design with Eagle etc. But what I'm looking to do is build on top of Arduino boards for instance to make switch/button boxes etc. Not create a custom Arduino board!

So now that I have done some tinkering, what are the best steps/software to make permanent design and then help with soldering it? Is there any software to help with all the wiring? Frankly the wiring part is a concern. Can you have one ground line that can be connected to many components?

Second, when designing the 3d model enclosures in say Fusion 360, is there a library of "cutouts" to use for your model? For example let's say you want to have a 16x2 LCD. Is there a cutout with the perfect dimensions to use for your model so the LCD can be easily installed into the enclosure?

Greazr.

Hi ,
To draw up the scheme I use either EasyEDA online (https://easyeda.com), or KiCAD installed on the PC https://www.kicad.org/

Both are very good and free to use.

To design the PCB I use KiCAD.

To manufacture professional quality PCBs, I use

To make my PCB prototypes, I use a process that I developed, and it works like this:

Clean the virgin plate with steel wool;
Pass a piece of burlap with oil on the virgin plate;
Clean the plate so that it is only "dirty" with oil;
Powder the plate with toner powder;
Turn the plate over to get rid of excess toner;
Using a CNC laser engrave the circuit on the board using laser;
Then wash the plate with water, but without causing a jet of water;
Then I blew it with hot air to better fix the toner on the PCB;
Then corrode in acid.

RV mineirin





OK, so you have just told OP how to do exactly what he said he didn't want to do.

OP: yes, there's software that can draw wiring, but it will not help you in the least because if you have a working breadboard, then you already know where the wires need to go. You need a perfboard, a spool of wire like 30gauge wire-wrap, a soldering iron and solder and lots of patience.

I have purchased: KEYESTUDIO Proto Shield PCB Board for Arduino Mega 2560 R3, Double Sided Circuit Proto Board Solderable for Arduino Mega 2560 (10 PCS)

but what I have in mind with buttons, switches, displays etc, I will need to have wires connect to a lot of them.

Yes that is always the issue. I use simple experiment board like these to build a prototype. And i use solid wire to connect things rather than multi-strand. It is much easier to work with, simply because it is easier to fiddle through the holes and stays in position much better. Since the wire doesn't move, there is no need for flexibility.
Over here they sell 4 wire phone cable at the hardware store which provide me with 4 colors of the stuff i want. Just need to remove the extra insulation layer.

Usually, yes of course ! many times i connect the GND together on the back side of the prototype (not the side with the components) using fully stripped copper wire.
A good and easy to use wire-stripper is a rather handy tool. one like this is the best for this sort of work.
Another component that is needed is male & female header pins, that you can solder onto the Prototype PCB so you can easily plug the Arduino and prototype shield together.

There are several ideas here that might be helpful. 900+ posts, get a 0xcoffee

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So, I'm not finding much info on the web, but with one ground line, is it okay to solder T joints to that. Or?

Also, With the black headers on Mega 2560 or Uno, can those be removed, in order to solder permanently to the board? Is soldering from the other side (bottom side) okay?

Greazr.

Removing the sockets is possible but it is easy to damage the board whilst doing so. It is perfectly OK to solder to the solder pads on the bottom of the board

How about soldering into the header??

Almost impossible but feel free to try it

Actually they can be relatively easily removed. Mechanically remove the plastic, using a side cutter, and then remove the metal forks one by one using a soldering iron and open the holes by heating up the solder and using a solder vacuum pump.
Still that is not the best idea. The female headers are meant have male header pins inserted into them, onto which you can solder wire or which you can solder onto a Prototype PCB, making a shield.

In most cases this is fine.

Have not tried this method but this looks reasonable.

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