greets
today my soldering station refused to heat up, it was stuck either at 1 degree C or at 25C. This happened a few times in the past, a quick turn off/on solved the problem but not now. There is no heat coming from the iron. The model is ZD-937
I took the station apart, pictures attached...
The only thing that looks to me like it might be damaged is the diode d2 to the left from the Atmel micro controller chip.
Any ideas? Any way to diagnose this problem?
thanks for any suggestions
I guess it could be, it does look toasty
but normal when they do that its the heater element crapping out in the iron, how long have you had it
I think I bought it about 5 years ago, but I only used it on rare occasions, and very rarely for longer than 30 minutes.
How would I test the heater element?
naut:
I think I bought it about 5 years ago, but I only used it on rare occasions, and very rarely for longer than 30 minutes.How would I test the heater element?
You would test for continuity on the two heater element pins. Problem is unless you have a pin out drawing of the iron plug it's hard to determine which pins are which because they also include the pins used by the temperature sensors also embedded in the iron and probably a ground connection also.
Lefty
just my 1p's worth, they forgot to take off the protective sticker of the buzzer
I did a continuity test, the only continuity is between the lower pins 2 and 3 (out four pins) at about 2.7 ohms. If we assume that the temperature sensor burned out, would the heating element still heat up?
Does the fact you can see the c2 symbol mean it is vaporized or is it soldered onto the other side of the board?
naut:
I did a continuity test, the only continuity is between the lower pins 2 and 3 (out four pins) at about 2.7 ohms. If we assume that the temperature sensor burned out, would the heating element still heat up?
No such assumption can be made. A good fail-safe design would treat a 'burned out' temp sensor reading as a maximum temp such that no power is given to the heating element, but that too would be an assumption.
Lefty
outofoptions:
Does the fact you can see the c2 symbol mean it is vaporized or is it soldered onto the other side of the board?
It's on the other side, under the LCD, it looks ok.
No such assumption can be made. A good fail-safe design would treat a 'burned out' temp sensor reading as a maximum temp such that no power is given to the heating element, but that too would be an assumption.
Lefty
Since it just reads 1degree C, I would assume it's ok, otherwise it would show the max temperature. Oh well, I'll just have to order a new heating element.
But I'm thinking of replacing that diode D2, does it look like zener diode to you guys?
naut:
outofoptions:
Does the fact you can see the c2 symbol mean it is vaporized or is it soldered onto the other side of the board?It's on the other side, under the LCD, it looks ok.
No such assumption can be made. A good fail-safe design would treat a 'burned out' temp sensor reading as a maximum temp such that no power is given to the heating element, but that too would be an assumption.
Lefty
Since it just reads 1degree C, I would assume it's ok, otherwise it would show the max temperature. Oh well, I'll just have to order a new heating element.
But I'm thinking of replacing that diode D2, does it look like zener diode to you guys?
So one degree C above freezing, is your room that cold?
Does the reading change if you unplug the iron from the controller?
Lefty
So one degree C above freezing, is your room that cold?
Does the reading change if you unplug the iron from the controller?
Lefty
Well actually when I turn it on it either shows 1c or 25/26c.
If I unplug the iron it jumps to I think 255c and then quickly replaces the digits with underscores and the error beeper starts to beep.
Reading room temperature would indicate a faulty heading element. Reading 1 degree C indicates something more sinister and I couldn't help but notice the horrible soldering on that PCB and it looks like it was done by hand with poor quality control and workmanship. A bare minimum you should do is reflow all the joints on the board, it is a failure waiting to happen. Don't worry about D2, it actually looks okay to me, if it were burnt, you would see discoloration on the board.
Did you work this out?
I have the exact same issue
jrmcferren:
A bare minimum you should do is reflow all the joints on the board, it is a failure waiting to happen.
Just in case it isn't clear - you should reflow using a different soldering iron - even if your current soldering iron was working, attempting to reflow the controller board for the iron being used could result in some bad things happening...
I have the same issue.
Did you find a solution ?
I don't think you should expect an answer from a 5+ year old topic. Start a new one.
Moderator.
