How do I tell the difference between a
brown, black, black, red, red resistor and a
red, red, black, black, brown resistor?
Experience, or guessing 
A DMM is the first investment you need to make in the electronics hobby.
@user132435, your topic has been moved to a more suitable location on the forum.
Color band system
To distinguish left from right there is a gap between the C and D bands: 
- The first significant figure of component value (left side)
- The second significant figure (some precision resistors have a third significant figure, and thus five bands).
- The decimal multiplier (number of trailing zeroes)
- If present, indicates tolerance of value in percent (no band means 20%)
In the above example, a resistor with bands of red, violet, green, and gold has first digit 2 (red; see table below), second digit 7 (violet), followed by 5 (green) zeroes: 2700000 ohms. Gold signifies that the tolerance is ±5%.
Precision resistors may be marked with a five band system, to include three significant digits, a power of 10 multiplier, and a tolerance band. An extra-wide first band indicates a wire-wound resistor.[6]
The tolerance band is also often of a different width than the others.
Use a multimeter. Seriously.
Often the colours are ambiguous on metal-film resistors as the underlying blue base-coat bleeds through, making black / brown / red / orange scale very subjective. And the band spacing may be wrong - often is in fact.
Besides a nice big LCD display on a multimeter is much easier to see in the first place.
Surface mount resistors are much better, they print the value on the top!
Oddly there is no actual reason for not printing the value on a through-hole resistor, diodes of the same dimensions have the part number printed on them. Its an accident of history I think, and hopefully will die out, its not friendly to the 8% of people without full trichromat vision (and as I said doesn't really work against the blue background of a metal-film resistor especially in artificial light).
Hi @MarkT - I'd agree. I'm color blind (red - green deuteranopia) which does cause problems - distinguishing between say 100 ohms and 1M. It can make a dramatic difference, so where necessary I check with a multimeter.
I bought one of these component testers. It does not replace a DMM, but I find it more convenient for checking resistor and capacitor values. I can no longer trust my eyes. Also good for checking transistor, diode and LEDs.
I just bought the upgraded version! About the same price as your eBay listing.
Built-in LiPo battery and charging circuit from micro-USB, fully encased and upgraded system includes IR remote decoder! Just tested that function too - it works!
Comes with charge cable, demo components and clip leads.
And of course you will share the listing.
Click on the image, it will take you to the ad.
Fancy.
OK, that is cool. Rechargeable battery and remote decoder are nice upgrades. Might just order one and pass my old one to my son.
Of course. 
But not the flipping German version you linked for some unknown reason! You then have to reset the language or you are forever stuck in German when you navigate. 
But I have had to learn how to do it. This "new" forum works in cryptic ways! 
You pay for fast delivery. 
I agree however, I think the machines have been paid off many years ago. No reason to purchase new machines to print on the resistors.
Mil-Spec resistors have had printed values and ratings for > 30 Year.