If you've got quite a densly populated veroboard, is it geneally easier to start with low profile components like wires and resostors, and finish with taller components like TO220 packages, or is it less fiddly to start at one side and work your way across?
And any other clever "life hacks" to make the soldering up boards easie
When assembling a through-hole PCB, it's better to start with the low components since you typically need to work with it upside down and it's easier to keep the components from moving around that way. Work from low profile to higher profiles in order.
For a protoboard, that can work, but I find that since you're also soldering connecting wires in place (as opposed to PCB where they are printed on), it's best to focus on completing "networks."
So I start by placing all the components first then holding everything in position: bend resistor leads so they won't fall out, tack solder relays and large capacitors, etc.
Then start at one end of the schematic, typically power or ground and solder everything that needs power or ground. Go to the first network or junction on the schematic and solder all those connections, and so on. Doing it this way makes it less likely that you'll miss a connection and have to go back and redo it. That tends to make the board a mess over time.
I like to start with the power and ground connections and ring them out with a continuity tester before installing any components. I then follow up with the rest of the wire “traces” and low profile components. Then I install the taller components in what ever order feels right at the time, double checking my wiring as I go.
Thanks all.
Am i the only peraon who uses veroboad/stripboard as opposed to perfboard?
Stripboard always strikes me as neater, though possibly not as compact.
No I preferred strip board. My tip is don't get hung up on using all the strips all the time.they are fine for power and ground.
If you are not good at converting a circuit into a strip board design plan ahead by using a strip board layout program. Search for a free one on line. This will allow you to juggle to get the optimum design. Then soon you will be able to do it in your head.
I've used fritzing for it, but TBH I find paper & pencil easier. 
No keep it that way it is truly appalling, I am talking about strip board layout programs like
For designing prototype / strip board layouts, I simply use a sheet of paper with a 5mm (about 2 times larger than life) dot matrix pattern and a pencil.
I draw the top view then, when it looks OK, scan it and flip it in a graphics program so I have an under side view as well. I used to use tracing paper to achieve the same effect.
Blank:
I use a similar approach. I've duplicated all the proto board types I use in Affinity Designer as templates.
I'm going to take a look at Verodes that @Grumpy_Mike suggested as I hadn't heard of it until today.
Edit: Whoops, don't have a Windows box.
Nether do I, but search for a Mac Strip board layout software.
Will do.
My first '84 Mac use was to use MacDraw to do Vero wire wrap board layouts. I think it's a shame that Apple decided to drop MacDraw from the core included Mac apps.
Yes it is. I suspect that at the time vector drawing was not a thing many people wanted.
I too used my 84' Mac to draw diagrams for my magazine articles, and then when it was dropped and would no longer run I bought a copy of MacDraft the commercial replacement. This allowed me to read in the original Mac draw files.
Now I use MacDraft P.E. version 7 to produce both schematics and strip board diagrams required by the MagPi magazine. They actually wanted a Fritzing diagram but I refuse to use that because ... well it is crap.
This is an example of a physical layout diagram I produced for a Voice Changer project last year.
And the track side
I haven't used any strip board for a while but all this talk has me wanting to try it again. I might even drag the SE-30 out of the closet and do some MacDraw reminiscing. 
I go with @6v6gt
vero.pdf (100.2 KB)
Its worth messing about a bit to get the component layout optimised if your circuit is going into a small space, or eg if you need a power device at an edge to fit a heat sink..
This topic was automatically closed 180 days after the last reply. New replies are no longer allowed.
