Share tips you have come across

PCB Eyelets Used as Wire Ferrules

PCB eyelets crimped on stranded wires keeps those strands under control.

This process makes wire connections easier and less likely to result in fabrication problems.

The Following images show the technique:


EDIT
When stripping insulation from wires, highly recommend using an insulation displacement type wire stripper:

Hand Soldering Castellated Components

It can be difficult to solder castellated components as the area to the left and right of the cove is, usually, glass epoxy.

If you follow the images below, you should achieve good results when hand soldering these devices.

Flattening Solder Ahead of Time

Further to post #1015.

It can be difficult to source thin solder for SMD work.

Very thin solder seems to not have an appropriate amount of flux.

.5mm is a bit too large for soldering SMDs and usually results in using too much.

Parallel Pliers work well for flattening solder as you go; the main problem is it cuts into your soldering productivity and your soldering rhythm.

If you have a hard plastic or metal roller you can flatten solder quite fast and do it ahead of time.

Prepare few meters so it is ready to go when needed.

See the following images for this technique.

Hi,
Nice, but your bench is TOO clean....

I don't get a chance to do a proper clean of my bench at work, that's why we have the equivalent of an intern. :+1: :+1: :+1:
When clean it still shows battle scars. :grin: :laughing: :smiley:

Tom... :smiley: :+1: :coffee: :australia:

2 Likes

Making a Reasonable looking Test Jig

The following images show how to build a test jig.


  • Design your front panel layout.
  • Print a 1:1 paper copy and add double stick tape.
  • Laminate.


Enlarge the holes for your LEDs switches etc.


See this post for soldering the proto board components:

2 Likes

Bucket For Easy Access to Soldering Tools

New to Soldering ?

Stay organized by placing your soldering tools for easy access in a tool bucket.

Have several tool buckets for repeating jobs :wink:

Faster Soldering Iron Tip Recovery ?

Small soldering iron tips can have a long recovery time after you solder a connection.

The modification shown is done on a FX-888D soldering iron.

It seems to make the recovery time shorter.

Make the filler tube size so the tip can still easily fit over the assembly.

If you make the modification, please let us know what you discover.

This silicon putty:

withstands soldering temperatures, and can be used to hold components in place when you're doing evil things like expecting the solder to provide mechanical integrity (say, soldering header pins flat agains a board.)

(It's a pretty substantial-size package, especially since it's mostly re-usable. Unfortunately, smaller batches of silicone putties that I tried (ie "Silly Putty" are NOT capable of sustaining the same heat.)

He's too busy coming up with useful inventions for us to actually do something that would make a mess of his workbench :smiley:

2 Likes

When you run out of bench space, you improvise..

Tom... :smiley: :+1: :coffee: :australia:

3 Likes

Arduino links of interest.


How to use this forum:

Example sketches:
https://docs.arduino.cc/built-in-examples/

Getting started:
https://www.arduino.cc/en/Guide

Basics of C++ on an Arduino

Arduino Programming Course
Programming course


Listing of downloadable 'Arduino PDFs' :

Either Google >>>- - - - > arduino filetype: pdf
Or click the link immediately below:
100s of PDFs for Arduino



Get Started in C++ Programming


Listing of downloadable 'C++ PDFs' :

Either Google >>>- - - - > C++ filetype: pdf
Or
100s of C++ PDFs


Arduino cheat sheet:

Watch these:

Arduino programming syntax:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=CbJHL_P5RJ8

Arduino arithmetic operators:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=UUx0_s-ElSs

Arduino control flow:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=QpPGGuaGbCA

Arduino data types:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=xmZXWMEltEc

Understanding Destructive LC Voltage Spikes:

OR

# Seven Habits of Successful 2-Layer Board

Why decoupling capacitors:

Some things to read


LCD information:

OR

Reading a schematic:

Language Reference:
https://www.arduino.cc/reference/en/

Foundations:
https://www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/Foundations

How and Why to avoid delay():

Demonstration code for several things at the same time.
http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=223286.0

How to power a project:

Ladyada's Learn Arduino - Lesson #0:

Multitasking:
Part 1:

Part 2:

Part 3:

Sparkfun Tutorials:

Micro Controllers:

Useful links:
https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=384198.0

Arduino programming traps, tips and style guide:

Arduino programming course:

Jeremy Blume:

Arduino products:
https://www.arduino.cc/en/hardware

Motors/MOSFETs

MOSFETs

Making a library
https://docs.arduino.cc/learn/contributions/arduino-creating-library-guide

Switches:

Soldering FYI


Servos

Tips and Traps

Share tips you have come across, 900+ posts:
https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=445951.0

Debug discussion:
https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=215334.msg1575801#msg1575801

Frequently Asked Questions:
https://support.arduino.cc/hc/en-us

SMD soldering:

Serial Communications

nRF24L01

How to make and post a schematic:

LEDs

Relays

Arduinos with relays

Number 'type's.

  • boolean (8 bit) - simple logical true/false, Arduino does not use single bits for bool
  • byte (8 bit) - unsigned number from 0 to 255
  • char (8 bit) - signed number from -128 to 127. The compiler will attempt to interpret this data type as a character in some circumstances, which may yield unexpected results
  • unsigned char (8 bit) - same as 'byte'; if this is what you're after, you should use 'byte' instead, for reasons of clarity
  • word (16 bit) - unsigned number from 0 to 65535
  • unsigned int (16 bit)- the same as 'word'. Use 'word' instead for clarity and brevity
  • int (16 bit) - signed number from -32768 to 32767. This is most commonly what you see used for general purpose variables in Arduino example code provided with the IDE
  • unsigned long (32 bit) - unsigned number from 0 to 4,294,967,295. The most common usage of this is to store the result of the millis() function, which returns the number of milliseconds the current code has been running
  • long (32 bit) - signed number from -2,147,483,648 to 2,147,483,647
  • float (32 bit) - signed number from -3.4028235E38 to 3.4028235E38. Floating point on the Arduino is not native; the compiler has to jump through hoops to make it work. If you can avoid it, you should. We'll touch on this later. Sparkfun.
  • You select the 'type' best suited for your variables.

ex:

  • your variable does not change and it defines a pin on the Arduino. const byte limitSwitchPin = 34;
  • since an analog variable can be 0 to 1023, a byte will not do, you can select 'int'. int temperature;
  • if your variable needs to be within -64 to +64 a 'char' will do nicely. char joystick;
  • if your variable is used for ASCII then you need type 'char', char myText[ ] = "Raspberry Pie Smells";
  • if your variable enables some code then boolean can be used. boolean enableFlag = false;
  • millis() returns the time in ms since rebooting, unsigned long currentTime = millis();
    etc.

Variables

Arduino Math

https://www.baldengineer.com/arduino-math-fixes.html

EEPROM

https://www.baldengineer.com/arduino-eeprom-stores-any-datatype.html

Decoupling




Oh, and have fun too !
:slight_smile:

8 Likes

44 button IR remote for your projects

This was posted a while back.

Some here might be interested in doing something similar.

2 Likes

Use a switch connecting the RESET pin to the GND pin. Now, if you want to turn the Arduino off without unplugging in or cutting power to components, flip the switch!

If you happen to order a terminal shield which is the wrong width for your ESP32 board, because everyone's favorite Asian Ecommerce site never provides an adequate description, then you can get a heavy-duty razor blade (cheap box cutters probs won’t work), score the board down the middle a few dozen times, then snap it apart with your hands. I used a narrow piece of flat bar to line up the first few scores. Finish it off with a file and sandpaper when done. Also drill additional mounting holes if you like. I Then cleaned all the dust away with some IPA and a brush. soapy water might be fine too.

wear a respirator during the entire process.

I then experimented with applying a thin coat of 2-part epoxy adhesive to all the edges, using both my gloved fingers and a cotton swab. This worked great in sealing up all the nasty fiber's which may have been left in my machining process, and gave the added benefit of a silky-smooth corner finish, which is actually way nicer to handle than any other pcb component I've purchased :open_mouth:

1 Like

Hi,
I have had a similar situation when making a test jig for a product, my boss simply got the angle grinder out with a cutting disk and did the same thing.
Yes PPE was worn, and we used a couple of layers of conformal spray to fix the cut edges.

Tom.... :smiley: :+1: :coffee: :australia:

1 Like

Luckily the particular PCB composite used for the shield cut very easily. I've had some trouble hand cutting and drilling some other boards. Thanks for alerting me about that conformal spray.

thanks :beers: :australia:

If you want the result to be a board, not two, then just epoxy a stiff material across the gap. Maybe a piece of PCB, or a piece of other sheet goods. Result is a card that may not be as rigid as the original, but can still be mounted on the corner standoffs quite acceptably.
C

Two Quick Hints

  1. Over sized flat component leads can be difficult to plug into solderless breadboards.
    These oversized leads can even damage the springs in the breadboard conductors.
    It takes only a few seconds to modify these component leads so they can be accommodated better.
    Flat leads are bent at 90 degrees, so their orientation lines up with the breadboard spring mechanism.

  1. Use the plastic standoffs from male headers on other components to stabilize them and lift the component off the PCB surface.
    Pull the male header pins out of the standoffs, insert the new component leads in the plastic standoff holes.

4 Likes

I've found neodymium magnets attached to walls or your work bench or wherever you make your projects at is extremely convenient, I almost exclusively use it, it's great for any tool with at least a small section of metal, which is almost every tool. If your magnet is neodymium, the tools (I'm assuming nobody here would try to put anything other than small - medium hand tools on it :man_facepalming:), and it's very easy to just pull it off with minimal force and reattach it hanging, which uses space that would be hard to utilize otherwise and frankly is kinda cool.

4 Likes

I have a pair with super sharp tips. For the most part they hang on the wire/test rack. I only need them for some SMD measurements. The day to day probes are pretty dull.